On 21 October 1520, five ships that had left Seville a year earlier entered an unknown channel. Thirty‑eight days later, they reached an ocean Europeans had never sailed before : the Strait of Magellan. Magellan named the passage Estrecho de Todos los Santos. Only after his death in the Philippines did Charles V give it the name it bears today.
The Selk’nam called it Hatitelen — or Atelili in other transcriptions. They lived on the southern shore of the strait for over ten thousand years. These names re‑emerge today through toponymic work carried out since 2017, drawing on nineteenth‑century French archives.
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1. Geography
The strait links the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans over 570 kilometres, from Dungeness Point to the Evangelistas islets. Its width ranges from 2 kilometres at its narrowest constriction, near Carlos III Island, to 32 kilometres in its broadest sections. Depths vary from about 28 metres around Magdalena Island to more than 1,000 metres off Cooper Key.
This submarine relief is not random. Late Cretaceous fractures first opened corridors in the Earth’s crust. Pleistocene glaciers then deepened, widened and multiplied these channels. The result is the maze of fjords and passages that still defines Magellanic navigation today.
2. Navigation
Westerly winds dominate for much of the year. Williwaws — katabatic squalls that tumble down the slopes without warning, a Kawésqar word — can exceed 100 knots. Fog, heavy precipitation and visibility reduced to just a few cables make the strait a demanding passage.
Antonio Pigafetta, chronicler of Magellan’s voyage, notes “very safe harbours, excellent water, wood, fish”. His account opened two centuries of gradual hydrographic work.
Map of the Strait by Antonio Pigafetta (Ferdinand Magellan expedition, 1520)
In 1698–1701, the expedition of Jacques Gouin de Beauchesne — commissioned by Louis XIV for the Royal South Sea Company and outfitted by Saint‑Malo shipowner Noël Danycan de L’Épine — produced the most accurate French document on Magellanic geography of its time. The manuscript was kept secret for years to protect French colonial ambitions in the region.
Map of the Strait of Magellan (1699) based on observations from the French Beauchesne expedition
Since 1978, Chilean maritime authorities (DIRECTEMAR) have required all commercial vessels to embark a Chilean pilot at Bahía Posesión, at the eastern entrance.
The explorer initially named the passage "Estrecho de Todos los Santos" ("Strait of All Saints") in reference to the religious feast celebrated on the day of its discovery. It was only after his death in the Philippines that Charles V, King of Spain, renamed the strait in honor of its discoverer.
3. First inhabitants
Three peoples shared these shores long before 1520, each with a very different relationship to water and territory.
Salesian archive photos: a Selknam man with his bow, and a Kawésqar woman with her son
The Kawésqar had been travelling these channels in bark canoes for around 6,000 years, between the Gulf of Peñas and the strait. Fishing and hunting marine mammals, they moved in small family groups without permanent settlements. Kawésqar simply means “human being”. Chilean Law 19.253 has recognised them since 1993; the 2017 census records 3,448 people identifying as Kawésqar.
The Aónikenk, the southern branch of the Tehuelche, hunted on foot across the continental steppe between the Santa Cruz River and the strait. Pigafetta, struck by their height — a head taller than Europeans of the time — coined the term Patagón, borrowed from the giant Pathoagon in a chivalric romance. This is how Patagonia got its name.
The Selk’nam reached the large island of Tierra del Fuego on foot, before the melting of the ice opened the strait. Their society, structured into lineages (haruwen) and seven exogamous “skies”, created one of the most complex initiation ceremonies in the Southern Hemisphere: the Hain. The shamans (xo’on) entered trance through song to communicate with the powers of the skies.
Tanu, one of the deities/spirits represented during the Hain, Selknam male initiation ritual; photo by Martin Gusinde
From the 1870s onwards, the arrival of sheep ranches triggered systematic extermination. Bounties were paid for the ears of Indigenous people killed. In 1896, ethnologist Martin Gusinde estimated the Selk’nam population at more than 3,000. By 1919, it had fallen to 279. Groups were captured and exhibited in European human zoos between 1878 and 1900.
Argentina officially recognized the Selknam in 1994, while Chile did so in 2023 through Law 21,606. The 2010 Argentinian census records 2,761 people identifying as Selknam, with over 294 living in Tierra del Fuego. In Chile, 1,144 people declared themselves Selknam in the 2017 census. The Kawésqar are recognized by Chilean Indigenous Law 19,253 (since 1993) and are organized into 14 Indigenous Communities. According to the 2017 Chilean census, 3,448 people declare themselves Kawésqar.
4. Biodiversity
Some 32 kilometres north‑east of Punta Arenas, Magdalena Island is home to around 50,000 breeding pairs of Magellanic penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus). These birds — seen by Magellan himself in 1520, who mistook them for geese — can reach 76 centimetres in height.
Magellanic penguins on Magdalena Island (Magellan Strait, Magallanes province, Chile)
Further west, Francisco Coloane Marine Park, Chile’s first marine park, protects waters where humpback whales regularly winter. South American sea lions and southern elephant seals haul out on rocky islands. Imperial cormorants, black‑browed albatrosses, giant petrels and Andean condors patrol both shores.
Small fur seal colony, Patagonian channels, Chile
On land, sheltered slopes carry forests of Nothofagus — Magellanic coigüe, lenga and ñirre — sculpted by the wind into leaning silhouettes where they are most exposed. Between the trees, thick bryophyte carpets close the canopy at ground level. These ecosystems connect directly with those of the Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve to the south.
Patagonian beech bent by the wind, Estrecho de Magallanes, Chile
5. The strait today
The opening of the Panama Canal in 1914 gradually diverted commercial traffic away from the strait. Since 2023, the trend has reversed. Prolonged drought limiting the canal’s capacity, geopolitical tensions and the canal’s unsuitability for ultra‑large vessels have revived the Magellanic route. The Chilean Navy reported a 25% increase in traffic in 2024, with projections of up to 70% growth over the full year. The route through the strait is 390 nautical miles longer, but accessible to any draught and free of locks.
View of Punta Arenas, a stopover for international maritime transit, Magallanes Province, Chile, South America
At the same time, the Magallanes region is developing a green hydrogen project based on the strait’s exceptional wind potential. Constant winds could theoretically generate seven times Chile’s current electrical capacity. The project remains controversial in its details, but it says something important about what this passage represents today: a strategic corridor once again, five centuries after Magellan
This specialization strengthens the region as a hub for international polar tourism, with infrastructure meeting International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO) standards.
Bibliography
Pigafetta, A. (1522). Relazione del primo viaggio intorno al mondo. Critical edition: Dentrecasteaux, 1830.
Gouin de Beauchesne, J. (1701). Relation journalière d’un voyage fait en 1698, 1699, 1700 et 1701. Manuscript. Service Historique de la Défense, Vincennes.
Gusinde, M. (1931–1939). Die Feuerland-Indianer. 3 vols. Mödling bei Wien: Anthropos-Bibliothek.
Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino. (2021). Cuaderno educativo — Pueblos originarios de Magallanes. Santiago: Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino.
DIRECTEMAR. (2025). Generalidades del Estrecho de Magallanes. Dirección General del Territorio Marítimo y de Marina Mercante, Chile.
Armada de Chile. (2024). Maritime Traffic Statistics — Estrecho de Magallanes.
The Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve (Cape Horn Nature Reserve), established in 2005, is one of the southernmost and largest protected areas in the world, covering more than 4,884,000 hectares of southern lands and waters. It contains unique terrestrial and marine ecosystems, pristine subantarctic forests, remarkable biodiversity—including over 5% of the world’s bryophyte diversity—and the populations of the Yaghan people, who maintain a millennia-old connection with these extreme landscapes.
Table des matières
The Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve was included in UNESCO’s “Man and the Biosphere” program in June 2005, becoming both the southernmost and one of the largest biosphere reserves in South America. Spanning about 4,884,274 hectares, it comprises a terrestrial area of 1,917,238 ha and a marine area of 2,967,036 ha, integrating for the first time in Chile both marine and terrestrial ecosystems under a unified conservation status. The Alberto de Agostini and Cape Horn National Parks form the core protected area, where all infrastructure development is strictly prohibited.
1. Geography and zoning of the Cape Horn nature reserve
Geographically, the reserve extends across the Tierra del Fuego archipelago, between 54.1° S and 56.2° S latitude, and 66.1° W and 72.5° W longitude. It includes the Wollaston, Hermite, Navarino, and Hoste islands, as well as channels (including the Beagle Channel), fjords, and currents that form a landscape shaped by glaciations and tectonic activity. The UNESCO MAB Reserve zoning (Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve, i.e., the southern Chilean marine reserve) is structured into three areas:
The core zone (Alberto de Agostini National Park including the Darwin Range, and Cape Horn National Park) is strictly protected.
The buffer zone, where light and sustainable activities are allowed.
The transition zone, including isolated villages like Puerto Williams and limited infrastructure under a sustainable development framework.
The reserve’s subantarctic forests are the southernmost on earth. Dominated by three Nothofagus species—N. pumilio, N. betuloides, and N. antarctica—they form both deciduous and evergreen stands, interspersed with peat bogs and alpine heaths. These forests are among the world’s rare examples of non-fragmented temperate forest. The organic-rich soils support vast carpets of bryophytes, typical of the cool, humid environment; these play a crucial role in the hydrological cycle and carbon sequestration.
2.2 Marine and coastal ecosystems
The marine component of the reserve centers around a complex network of fjords, channels, and underwater plateaus. The Humboldt current and the mixing of cold Pacific and Atlantic waters have fostered the development of kelp forests (Macrocystis pyrifera, Durvillaea antarctica) forming “underwater forests” that host diverse invertebrate fauna and fish communities. Intertidal habitats harbor macroalgae species and numerous endemic invertebrates, while the cold, oxygen-rich waters support populations of seals, sea lions, and several cetacean species.
3. Biological diversity and endemism: subantarctic biodiversity
3.1 Bryophytes and lichens
With over 300 species of liverworts and 450 species of mosses, the reserve is a global hotspot for bryophytes, representing more than 5% of global diversity on less than 0.01% of the world’s land surface. These communities, described as “miniature forests,” serve as sentinels for assessing the impacts of climate change and rising UV radiation.
Example of bryophytes / miniature forest (mosses, liverworts, and lichens) from the Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve (MAB-UNESCO); Navarino Island, 2020 (c) Lauriane Lemasson.
3.2 Terrestrial and marine fauna
Terrestrial fauna include the southern river otter (Lontra provocax), the Magellanic woodpecker (Campephilus magellanicus), and other endemic birds. In the marine environment, the surrounding waters are home to black-browed albatross, giant petrels, Magellanic penguins, and stable populations of fur seals and leopard seals, highlighting the ecological importance of this protected area.
A black Carancho from Martial Bay (Cape Horn Reserve, April 10, 2025, during a sailing expedition at Cape Horn and in the Patagonian channels)Whales in the Beagle Channel during the 2018 expedition (Karukinka Association)
4. Biocultural dimension and Yaghan ethnology
The reserve is also a cultural sanctuary. The Yaghan, nomadic people of the southern channels, are the world’s southernmost indigenous group, with a presence dating back over 7,500 years, as evidenced by archaeological sites on Navarino Island. They continue to possess expert knowledge of canoe navigation and subantarctic ecology, and have actively participated in research within the reserve, particularly through the Omora Ethnobotanical Park near Puerto Williams. Their oral traditions, language, and knowledge of local flora and fauna are incorporated into educational and conservation programs. Ecotourism in Patagonia is also a key activity of the Omora initiative.
5. Governance and management
The reserve is managed by a board chaired by the regional governor, involving public agencies and local organizations. The scientific committee, coordinated by the Omora Park and the University of Magallanes, leads research, ecological monitoring, and participatory conservation efforts. In 2006, the reserve joined UNESCO’s Ibero-MAB network, strengthening transnational cooperation for research and training.
6. Threats and conservation challenges
Despite its isolation, the reserve faces several threats:
Uncontrolled tourism development, particularly southern cruises and increased traffic around Cape Horn, poses risks of pollution and disturbance to marine wildlife.
Intensive salmon farming in northern fjords introduces exotic species and degrades water quality. Salmon now breed in these waters, impacting native species such as the robalo.
The spread of introduced species such as the North American beaver and mink threatens riparian forests, streamside habitats, and shorebird nesting sites.
Long-term monitoring programs, such as the Omora initiative and Long-Term Ecological Research (LTER) stations, assess these pressures and propose adaptive measures. However, monitoring is hampered by the vastness of the reserve and its logistical challenges.
Lake created at the foot of a glacier by beavers, photographed during a sailing expedition in Patagonia (Beagle Channel, Hoste Island, Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve, Chile).
7. Research and education initiatives
7.1 Omora Ethnobotanical Park
Founded in 2000, the Omora Ethnobotanical Park is at the center of a transdisciplinary approach combining ecology, environmental philosophy, and “field philosophy” education. It offers educational trails, including “miniature forests,” to raise public awareness of bryophyte diversity and the link between biodiversity and Yaghan culture.
7.2 Cape Horn International Center (CHIC)
Inaugurated in 2020 in Puerto Williams, CHIC brings together researchers, artists, and indigenous communities to develop a model for biocultural conservation, technical training, and sustainable development. Its programs address the responses of biodiversity to climate change, the management of invasive species, and the formulation of public policy adapted to subantarctic zones.
The Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve remains one of the rare refuges where harmonious coexistence between local inhabitants and ecosystems at the literal edge of the world is fully realized. Securing its future means strengthening participatory governance, managing invasive species, and supervising polar tourism under the banner of responsible ecotourism. Finally, the ongoing integration of Yaghan knowledge in research and education programs will ensure the preservation of both the biological and cultural heritage of this unique subantarctic sanctuary.
Pia Glacier, Patagonian Channels, Darwin Range, Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve, Magallanes, Chile, 2025
Bibliography
Rozzi, R. et al. (2006). Ten Principles for Biocultural Conservation at the Southern Tip of the Americas: The Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve. Ecology and Society, 11(1). https://www.ecologyandsociety.org/vol11/iss1/art43/
Rozzi, R. et al. (2004). Omora Ethnobotanical Park: A Model for Integrating Biocultural Conservation and Environmental Philosophy in the Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve. Environmental Ethics, 26(2), 131–169. https://doi.org/10.5840/enviroethics200426226
Mittermeier, R. A. et al. (2003). Hotspots: Earth’s Biologically Richest and Most Endangered Terrestrial Ecoregions. Conservation International. https://www.conservation.org
CONAF (Corporación Nacional Forestal). (2023). Reserva de la Biósfera Cabo de Hornos. Gobierno de Chile. https://www.chilebosque.cl
Cape Horn International Center (CHIC). (2021). CHIC Strategic Plan 2021–2026. Universidad de Magallanes. https://www.centrochic.cl
Anderson, C.B. et al. (2011). Exotic ecosystem engineers transform sub-Antarctic forest structure and function. Biological Invasions, 13, 545–561. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10530-010-9841-4
Anderson, C.B. et al. (2019). Cape Horn’s Lessons for Sustainability. Science Advances (UNESCO CHIC/UMAG). https://advances.sciencemag.org/
Rozzi, R. et al. (2010). La Reserva de Biósfera Cabo de Hornos: una propuesta educativa y de desarrollo sustentable en el extremo austral de Chile. Universidad de Magallanes. Disponible sur la bibliothèque CHIC.
Cape Horn (Cabo de Hornos in Spanish, Kaap Hoorn in Dutch, Loköshpi in the Yaghan language) is far more than just a geographic point. Located at 55°58′ south latitude and 67°16′ west longitude, this rocky promontory at 425 meters above sea level marks the southernmost point of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago and symbolically marks the meeting of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. At 965 kilometers from the Antarctic continent and just 138 kilometers from Ushuaia, Cape Horn rises as the ultimate sentinel of the Americas before the vastness of the Southern Ocean.
Table des matières
Geographical Position of Cape Horn
Location within the Fuegian archipelago
Cape Horn is situated on Horn Island (Isla Hornos), the southernmost island of the Hermite archipelago, itself part of the vast island complex of Tierra del Fuego. This modestly sized island (approximately 6 km by 2 km) is administratively part of the commune of Cabo de Hornos, in the Antarctic Province, within the Magallanes and Chilean Antarctic Region.
Contrary to popular belief, Cape Horn is not the southernmost point of the South American continent — that title belongs to the Diego Ramírez Islands, located 105 kilometers to the west-southwest. However, Cape Horn remains the southernmost of the great historical sailing capes and the most symbolic nautical waypoint in the Southern Hemisphere.
Precise Coordinates and Strategic Distances
With exact coordinates of 55°58′28″ south latitude and 67°16′10″ west longitude, Cape Horn lies at a unique geographical intersection where the major oceans of the Southern Hemisphere converge:
Distance from Ushuaia (Argentina): 138 km to the north-northwest
Distance from Puerto Williams (Chile): 56 km to the north
Distance from the Antarctic continent: 965 km to the south
Distance from the geographic South Pole: 2,535 km
Geographic map showing Cape Horn at the southern tip of South America, adjacent waters including Drake Passage, and nearby islands located in the Pacific, Atlantic, and Southern Oceans. (Source : Wikipedia)
Geological Formation and Geomorphology
Regional geological context
The Cape Horn region is embedded in the complex geological history of Tierra del Fuego, shaped by Andean orogeny and Quaternary glaciations. The archipelago was formed through a process of collapse and fragmentation of the southern tip of the Andes, amplified by glacial erosion and rising sea levels following the last Ice Age.
The geological formations of Horn Island consist mainly of sedimentary and volcanic strata from the Upper Cretaceous period, bearing witness to the intense tectonic activity related to the closure of the Rocas Verdes marginal basin and the early stages of Andean compression. This explains the rugged topography of the region, characterized by moderate elevations but extremely fragmented coastlines.
Coastal Morphology
To sailors, Cape Horn appears as a 425-meter cliff dropping directly into the ocean. This distinctive coastal morphology is the result of marine erosion, Quaternary glacial-interglacial cycles, and ongoing tectonic activity.
The Magellan-Fagnano Fault, a left-lateral strike-slip fault running east–west through Tierra del Fuego, indirectly influences the geomorphology of the Cape Horn region. With a movement rate of approximately 6.4 mm/year, this fault is a reminder of the continuous tectonic activity that shapes this part of the world.
Cape Horn marks the northern boundary of the Drake Passage, an 809-kilometer-wide strait separating South America from the Antarctic Peninsula. This strait represents the shortest distance between Antarctica and any other continental landmass, only 135 kilometers wide at its narrowest point, between Cape Horn and Snow Island in the South Shetlands.
Map of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current and Seawater Density Fronts Around Antarctica, Showing Ocean Depth and Main Fronts Near the Southern Ocean and Surrounding Continents (source : Wikipedia)
Antarctic Circumpolar Current
The Drake Passage is the point of maximum constriction of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC) — the most powerful ocean current on Earth. The ACC transports an average of 150 million cubic meters of water per second — nearly 100 times the combined flow of all the world’s rivers. Its strength peaks at Cape Horn.
This oceanographic phenomenon is the main driver of the extreme weather conditions in the region. With no continental barriers, the ACC fuels the relentless west winds known as the “Roaring Forties” and “Furious Fifties”.
Subpolar Oceanic Climate
Cape Horn enjoys a subpolar oceanic climate, with relatively stable yet cold year-round temperatures. Average temperatures hover around 5°C, and the area receives up to 2,000 mm of rainfall annually, with nearly 278 days of rain per year.
Wind is the dominant climatic factor, averaging 30 km/h but frequently exceeding 100 km/h during storms. These conditions are directly linked to Cape Horn’s position within the zone of the Furious Fifties — a corridor of uninterrupted westerly winds that circle the Southern Hemisphere.
Biodiversity and Conservation Status
Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve (UNESCO)
Since 2005, Cape Horn has been part of the Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve, recognized by UNESCO under the Man and the Biosphere Programme (MAB). The reserve spans 4,884,273 hectares, encompassing a core area of 1,347,417 hectares composed of the Alberto de Agostini National Park and Cape Horn National Park.
The southernmost part of Horn island during a sailing expedition to cape Horn with SY Milagro (Association Karukinka, 2025)
Cabo de Hornos National Park
The Cabo de Hornos National Park, created on April 26, 1945, spans 63,093 hectares and includes the Wollaston and Hermite archipelagos. It is the southernmost protected area on the planet, hosting unique subantarctic ecosystems adapted to harsh climatic conditions.
Exceptional Biodiversity
The Cape Horn region is home to the southernmost forest ecosystem in the world and harbors 5% of the planet’s bryophyte species (mosses and liverworts).
The flora comprises Magellanic subpolar forests, dominated by Nothofagus species (southern beeches), alongside rich communities of mosses, lichens, and ferns adapted to extreme cold and humidity.
Primary forest in Tekenika Bay (Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve, Karukinka Expedition, 2018)
The marine fauna is equally impressive: humpback whales, southern dolphins, South American sea lions, elephant seals, and orcas are frequently observed. The birdlife is dominated by black-browed albatrosses, giant petrels, Magellanic penguins, imperial cormorants, and even Andean condors.
Whales observed during a sailing expedition through the Patagonian channels (Chile) autumn 2018 (c) Karukinka
Maritime History and European Discovery
The Discovery of 1616
Cape Horn was discovered on January 29, 1616, during a Dutch expedition led by Willem Schouten and Jacob Le Maire. They sought an alternative to the Strait of Magellan to bypass the trade monopoly of the Dutch East India Company.
The cape was named in honor of the Dutch town of Hoorn, the expedition’s port of origin. This discovery profoundly altered maritime trade routes by offering a new corridor — broader than the Strait of Magellan, but vastly more dangerous.
A Historic Trade Route
For nearly three centuries, Cape Horn was a crucial maritime passage for global trade routes. Large sailing ships — known as “Cape Horners” — traversed these waters carrying goods between Europe, the Americas, and Asia: including nitrate, grain, wool, and gold from Australia.
The era of the great sailing ships ended with the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914. The last commercial sailing vessel to round the Horn was the Pamir, in 1949, marking the close of a legendary chapter in maritime history.
One of the many maps produced during the French Cape Horn Mission (1882–1883) led by Commander Martial
Indigenous Context and Cultural Memory
The First Inhabitants
Before European colonization (1860–1920), the Cape Horn region was solely inhabited by the Yaghan people (also Yámana) — marine nomads who navigated these waterways in bark canoes. These hunter-gatherers developed an extraordinary maritime culture adapted to the severe subantarctic climate.
The Cape Horn promontory was called Loköshpi in the Yaghan language, reflecting a rich indigenous toponymy. According to research by Karukinka Association, over 3,000 indigenous place names (in Yaghan, Haush, and Selk’nam) have been recorded in the area, revealing a detailed and sensitive knowledge of the landscape.
Preservation and Memory Work
For over a decade, the Karukinka Association, founded by Lauriane Lemasson in 2014, has worked to archive, preserve, and honor the memory of the indigenous cultures of the Cape Horn region. Their expeditions in the Patagonian channels, from Tierra del Fuego to Cape Horn, have contributed to sound archives, toponymic mapping, and cultural education.
This work is all the more crucial when one considers that these peoples experienced cultural genocide in the early 20th century, their population declining from over 10,000 individuals to fewer than 500 by 1920.
Contemporary Challenges and Futures
Tourism and Conservation
Cape Horn now attracts a growing number of expedition cruises, mostly departing from Ushuaia or Punta Arenas. While weather constraints limit visitor numbers, increased traffic poses conservation challenges for fragile ecosystems.
Chile maintains a military base on Horn Island, with a garrison, a chapel, and a lighthouse. The lighthouse keeper and their family constitute the only permanent inhabitants of this isolated place.
The Cape Horn lighthouse with the Cape promontory in the background during the rounding of Cape Horn by sailboat in April 2025 (Karukinka Expedition, sailing vessel Milagro)
Scientific Research
Cape Horn continues to be a site of important scientific research, particularly regarding climate change, oceanography, and subantarctic biodiversity. The work of the Karukinka Association and its partners contributes to the growing body of knowledge on extreme ecosystems undergoing rapid transformation.
Conclusion
Cape Horn occupies a unique place on the globe — both physically and symbolically. Situated at the southern tip of Horn Island in the Hermite archipelago, at 55°58′ South and 67°16′ West, it marks the symbolic point of convergence between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, between the Americas and Antarctica.
Its geographic position explains its extreme oceanographic and climatic conditions, forged over millennia of tectonic, glacial, and atmospheric dynamics. The Antarctic Circumpolar Current, the furious westerly winds, and the legendary nature of the Drake Passage make this one of the most dangerous maritime zones in the world.
Yet beyond the physical landscape lies a story of human history, resilience, tragedy, and conservation — from the Yaghan navigators to the Dutch explorers, from the age of sail to the fight to protect its fragile ecosystems.
To understand Cape Horn is to grasp the essence of a place where extremity meets universality, and where the end of the world becomes a mirror of the planet’s past, present, and future.
An outbreak of avian flu in 2023 hammered a colony of southern elephant seals in Chile’s Tierra del Fuego region, leading to a 50% decline in its population.
But over the 2024-2025 breeding season, the colony’s population recovered, with 33 pups being born.
An alliance between the Chilean branch of the Wildlife Conservation Society and the regional environmental department has been monitoring this particular colony for years, braving the remoteness and extreme weather at the southern tip of the Americas.
Experts posit that the site, Jackson Bay, may serve as a natural refuge from the avian flu because it’s geographically isolated as a fjord.
Year after year, a colony of elephant seals arrives in Jackson Bay, on the islands of Tierra del Fuego at the southern tip of Chile, to molt and breed. However, in 2023, an outbreak of avian flu devastated the region, and the colony’s population dropped by half.
In 2020, when avian flu caused devastating losses in seabird colonies in Europe and Southern Africa, experts initially thought the virus’s spread to mammals would be limited to terrestrial carnivores. However, during the outbreak in 2021 and 2022, the virus affected seals and whales in both Europe and North America. In 2023, when the virus arrived on the South American coast, the pathogen showed that it was capable of causing large-scale mortality among marine mammals. The southern elephant seal (Mirounga leonina) was one of the most heavily impacted species.
But good news arrived in April 2025, when researchers found that the elephant seal population in Jackson Bay had doubled to 200 individuals, including 33 pups.
“It is great news for the conservation of the species, because Jackson [Bay], by being in inland waters of fjords and canals, may act as a protective barrier against pandemics,” says Cristóbal Arredondo, a veterinarian and terrestrial program coordinator for the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) Chile,. Since 2008, WCS Chile has monitored this colony alongside the environmental department of the Magallanes region, which encompasses Tierra del Fuego.
Elephant seals in Jackson Bay. Image courtesy of Francisco Brañas.
A refuge from the virus
Jackson Bay is home to “the largest elephant seal colony in Chile,” according to Javiera Constanzo, a veterinarian and the One Health approach manager for WCS Chile. The bay is located between two protected areas: the Multiple Use Marine and Coastal Protected Area Seno Almirantazgo, or Admiralty Sound, which is administered by the Ministry of the Environment, and Karukinka Natural Park, which is a private conservation initiative administered by WCS Chile.
Karukinka Natural Park is a vast natural refuge that spans approximately 300,000 hectares (741,000 acres) of diverse ecosystems. Admiralty Sound, which surrounds the coasts of Karukinka, receives freshwater from several glaciers in the Cordillera Darwin, an ice-capped mountain range. Since Admiralty Sound is a large fjord — a deep, narrow valley with glacial origins that has been filled with seawater — it’s mix of freshwater and saltwater makes it highly productive. And as a government-protected area, Admiralty Sound is vital for the elephant seal population, Constanzo says, by prohibiting activities that could affect the species.
Above all, Jackson Bay’s isolation might make it a refuge for the colony of elephant seals. This hypothesis is still being studied, but “what is being observed is very positive for the conservation of the species,” Constanzo says.
During the most recent season, 33 pups were born. Image courtesy of WCS.
Successful monitoring after 2023 avian flu
Data from satellite transmitters show that some of the Jackson Bay elephant seals stay put while others migrate from different places, coming from the Pacific Ocean or traveling in the Atlantic until they reach the Valdés Peninsula in the central Argentine Patagonia.
In 2023, during the highly pathogenic avian flu outbreak, there was a mass die-off of elephant seals in Argentina: according to a study published in Nature Communications, approximately 17,000 of the animals died.
At Jackson Bay, researchers recorded only about 100 individuals in the colony that year, less than half of the number recorded in prior years.
“We eagerly hoped that in the following season, the colony’s numbers would recover,” Arredondo says. And they did. The 2024-2025 season resolved any doubt: 200 elephant seals were seen in Jackson Bay in December, which is the month when the colony’s population normally peaks. Researchers also recorded the births of more than 30 elephant seal pups, the same number as recorded in 2023.
Researchers from WCS Chile and the Magallanes regional department of the environment in Jackson Bay. Image courtesy of Francisco Brañas.
The colony in Jackson Bay has “now recovered its numbers after the avian flu,” Constanzo says.
Experts attribute the rapid reestablishment of the elephant seal colony in Jackson Bay to several factors. For one, its location in the inland waters of fjords and canals, far from other affected colonies, may have served as a natural barrier against avian flu, reducing the risk of contagion.
The researchers suggest that elephant seals that contracted the highly pathogenic avian flu virus may not have managed to return to Jackson Bay, likely dying before reaching their destination.
About 200 elephant seals were seen in Jackson Bay in December 2024. Image courtesy of WCS.
Monitoring in an extreme area
Wind speeds in Jackson Bay can hit up to 120 kilometers per hour (75 miles per hour), presenting significant challenges for researchers as they disembark. However, this didn’t stop marine biologist Marina Maritza Sepúlveda from traveling to Jackson Bay in 2023 with a team of Chilean and British scientists. They fitted satellite transmitters on several elephant seals arriving in Jackson Bay, part of an ongoing project that WCS Chile is supporting.
Sepúlveda says the transmitters help scientists track the colony as it travels along the Cape Horn Current, one of the “least-studied and [least-]known currents in Chile,” and one that is “extremely important to understand.”
WCS Chile has also joined the team to monitor the colony of elephant seals. Given the high logistical cost of reaching the area, every opportunity to collect data is taken advantage of.
“The opportunity to have the animals there lets us maximize the chance to gather valuable scientific data,” Sepúlveda says. For example, veterinarians like Arredondo and Constanzo collect nasal and anal swabs to study the elephant seals’ microbiome, including their bacteria and virus loads.
Jackson Bay is located in an area where wind speeds can hit up to 120 km/h. Image courtesy of WCS.
The researchers also gather data by using an ultrasound to measure the elephant seals’ fat layers, which allows for an assessment of their body condition. They extract whiskers and fur samples to analyze the seals’ trophic ecology and check for the presence of heavy metals, and they collect droppings to test for parasites.
During the most recent season, researchers also collected samples to confirm the presence of avian flu in the colony. Those samples are now being processed.
“Teamwork allows us to optimize resources, share knowledge and ensure the collection of valuable data that contribute to the understanding and conservation of this colony of elephant seals,” Arredondo says.
Researchers have been monitoring the elephant seal colony in Jackson Bay as a long-term project for more than 16 years.
Every year between October and April, a small team hikes across the entire beach and coastal area. During these inspections, the researchers categorize the elephant seals by age and sex, which helps them understand the population composition of the colony. However, depending on a seal’s position on the ground, some individuals can’t be identified; in those cases, scientists put them into the “sex not determined” category, Constanzo says.
Every year between October and April, a small team of researchers travels across the entire beach and coastal area to gather information about elephant seals. Image courtesy of WCS.
Elephant seals spend most of their lives in the water and only travel onto land to breed and molt, in a process that takes about one month. During this time, they don’t enter the water for food. This means that any change that increases their energy consumption is a problem, according to Arredondo. That’s why the researchers ensure they maintain a safe distance from the seals that “does not disrupt” their behavior.
In addition to counting elephant seals in person, they also used drones to map the area. These help researchers collect detailed images of the locations of the elephant seals.
Francisco Brañas, an expert with the protected areas unit of the regional environmental department, says processing these images can allow researchers to obtain additional information, such as individual measurements. Researchers can estimate the elephant seals’ body weight and evaluate their physical condition to determine whether they have sufficient food, according to Brañas.
“The images captured by the drones provide us with a more complete and precise view of the colony,” he says.
Regular monitoring has been key to evaluating the recovery of the colony, which was first described in 2006. That year, 46 individuals were recorded. Since then, the numbers have grown overall.
The striking increase in the elephant seal population in Jackson Bay is not only a testament to the species’ resilience, but it also reflects the collaborative efforts that are crucial to carrying out this monitoring work in a remote and extreme-weather area.
Elephant seals spend most of their lives in the water and only travel onto land to breed and molt. Image courtesy of Pablo Lloncón.
Banner image of an elephant seal in Jackson Bay, courtesy of Francisco Brañas.
This story was first published here in Spanish on May 1, 2025.
The Pacification of Araucania: a comprehensive analysis of invasion, dispossession, and Mapuche genocide
Chile's history contains a chapter written with euphemisms and blood: the misnamed "Pacification of Araucania." This article delves into the details of this process (1861-1883), deconstructing the official narrative to reveal a complex operation of military conquest, legal dispossession, and forced colonization that redefined the destiny of the Chilean state and the Mapuche people, leaving a legacy of conflict that persists to this day.
1. Historical context: autonomous Wallmapu and the expansionist Chilean state
In the mid-nineteenth century, the southern frontier of Chile was clearly delineated by the Biobío River. South of it extended Wallmapu, the ancestral territory of the Mapuche people, a de facto independent nation that had resisted Spanish conquest for more than 300 years. Mapuche society was organized into a complex social and political structure based on the lof (family clan), the ayllarewe (federation of lofs), and the butalmapus (large territorial alliances).
For the Chilean state, consolidated after the wars of independence and under the influence of European ideas of progress, this autonomy was a problem. Political and economic elites, under the presidencies of Manuel Montt (1851-1861) and then José Joaquín Pérez (1861-1871), viewed occupation as necessary to:
Appropriate resources: the lands of Araucania were considered the "granary of Chile."
Unify territory: connect the central zone to colonies in Valdivia and Llanquihue.
Assert sovereignty: eliminate the internal frontier and project an image of a modern nation.
2. Key actors in the conflict
This historical process was led by figures and groups with radically opposed interests.
Category
Main Actors
Role in the Conflict
Chilean State (Officials)
José Joaquín Pérez, Federico Errázuriz Z., Aníbal Pinto, Domingo Santa María
Presidents who drove the occupation policy
Chilean State (Military)
Col. Cornelio Saavedra, Gen. Gregorio Urrutia, Col. Basilio Urrutia
Chilean and European settlers, Orélie Antoine de Tounens
Occupied lands, pretext for conquest
3. The State's plan: Cornelio Saavedra's proposal
In 1861, Colonel Cornelio Saavedra Rodríguez presented to the Chilean Congress a detailed plan for the "Pacification of Araucania." He proposed abandoning the policy of treaties for material occupation, based on three axes:
Advance the military frontier from the Biobío to the Malleco, with forts.
Subdivide and sell "secured" lands.
Promote the settlement of Chilean and foreign settlers to "Chilenize" the region.
The plan sparked debate but was approved by Congress, triggering the invasion.
4. Military execution: phases of an asymmetric war
Military conquest unfolded in several phases, interrupted by Mapuche uprisings and the War of the Pacific.
First Phase (1861-1868): Advance and Fortification Foundation of forts (Angol, Mulchén, etc.), immediate Mapuche resistance, "scorched earth" tactics applied by the army.
Second Phase (1869-1881): Diplomatic Pause and Consolidation Slowdown in advance, territorial consolidation, introduction of telegraph and railroad.
Third Phase (1881-1883): The Final Offensive Last major Mapuche uprising in 1881, massive military repression, founding of Temuco, military end of the "Pacification."
5. Legal dispossession: how laws annihilated Mapuche property
Military conquest was inseparable from legal conquest.
Radicación Law of 1866:
Definition of "vacant lands": any land not "continuously occupied" by indigenous peoples becomes state property.
Imposition of individual private property, foreign to Mapuche culture.
Creation of radicación commissions, a process rife with abuses and corruption.
"Títulos de Merced": Confinement in Reductions
Attribution of small portions of land (approximately 6 hectares per person), insufficient for traditional economy.
Loss of over 90% of Mapuche territory.
Social fragmentation and isolation of communities.
6. Directed colonization: land for some, dispossession for others
Treatment of the Mapuche People: confinement in reductions, lack of state support, status of "minors" under guardianship.
Treatment of European/Chilean Settlers: large parcels, state support (travel, tools, animals, medical assistance), status as full citizens.
7. The human catastrophe and the genocide debate
The "Pacification" was a human catastrophe that decimated the Mapuche population, fueling a debate about the term "genocide" according to the UN definition (1948).
Destruction of economy, dispossession of land, confinement in uninhabitable zones, massive famines and epidemics.
Ethnocide: destruction of culture through prohibition of language, religion, and autonomous education.
Historiographical Perspectives
Traditional: inevitable process for Chilean unification.
Revisionist: imperialist conquest, systematic violence, labeled ethnocide or genocide.
Mapuche: invasion of a sovereign country, beginning of a persistent colonial relationship.
Demographic Collapse
Between 20,000 and 30,000 Mapuche died of hunger and disease between 1881 and the early twentieth century.
The Mapuche population, estimated at half a million before conquest, suffered a demographic collapse from which it did not recover for more than a century.
8. Total impact: disarticulation of Mapuche society
The "Pacification" caused a structural rupture in all aspects of Mapuche life:
Political: loss of authority of the lonkos.
Economic: transition from a prosperous society to poverty.
Social: fragmentation and forced migration to cities.
Cultural: forced assimilation, threat to Mapuche language and worldview.
9. Mapuche resistance and resilience
Despite devastating circumstances, Mapuche resistance endured, transforming into political and legal struggles in the twentieth century. Memory and cultural identity survived clandestinely, testifying to remarkable resilience.
10. Legacy and historical debt: roots of current conflict
The "Pacification of Araucania" is the direct source of current conflict in Chile. The territorial and autonomy claims of the Mapuche movement rest on this historical dispossession. The "historical debt" is central to public debate, and recommendations for reparation remain largely unimplemented.
11. Comparative analysis: Araucania, the Argentine "Desert," and the American West
The Chilean process was not isolated:
Conquest of the Desert (Argentina, 1878-1885): similar ideological justification, total war tactics, objective of freeing lands for livestock.
Indian Wars (United States, nineteenth century): westward expansion, reservations, similar dispossession and violence.
In all cases, nation-states used their military superiority and a legal framework to dispossess indigenous peoples, leaving a legacy of trauma and struggle for justice.
Conclusion: a history to reclaim
The "Pacification of Araucania" was a war of conquest that dispossessed a people of their territory and sought to annihilate their culture. Understanding it in all its complexity is a duty for any society aspiring to justice. Recognizing this past is not reopening wounds, but beginning to heal them on the basis of truth and reparation.
