On Monday, October 27, the Milagro resonated with the sound of coigรผe wood and tools. With Josรฉ, crew member and godparent of the boat, we dedicated the day to a traditional woodworking session to craft two new work surfaces from coigรผe wood. These new fittings, now installed at the stern of the sailing vessel, will be used to clean fish and lift nets outside, in perfect harmony with the sea and the wind. On board, the scent of freshly cut wood mingled with that of changing tides. The finishing touches were done with an axe, a vibrating saw, and finally a grinder.
Heritage of the Yagan people๏ปฟ
Among the Yagans๏ปฟ, people of the channels of Tierra del Fuego, woodworking holds an essential place. Originating from a culture intimately linked to water and cold, the Yagans๏ปฟ shape wood for everything: canoes, tools, shelters. Their know-how is based on a keen sense of the material, capable of transforming a wet log into a light boat or a rough plank into a durable work surface. By reviving these ancestral gestures, although supplemented by modern tools, we pay homage to this millenary maritime culture, which saw in every piece of wood a fragment of the landscape, a trace of the link between humans and nature.
Lauriane and Josรฉ aboard Milagro, with a first coigรผe wood work surface on the starboard aft balcony.
Coigรผe wood, the strength of Southern Chile
The coigรผe (Nothofagus dombeyi๏ปฟ) is a emblematic tree of the temperate forests of southern Chile and Patagonia. Its wood, dense and strong, is distinguished by a clear and warm tint, perfect for marine works. It is a species that withstands moisture well and ages gracefully, developing a soft patina over the seasons. Working with coigรผe means handling a living material, rooted in the same earth and winds that the Milagro sails through. This noble wood, over 60 years old in the case of what we used, was shaped here in the traditional way so that the boat continues its journey respecting the traditions and nature surrounding it.
Coigรผe leaves (Valerio Pillar de Porto Alegre, Brazil โ DSC_7172.JPGUploaded by pixeltoo, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10393830)
The Beagle Channel, known to the Yaghan people as Onashaga (โchannel of the Ona hunters,โ i.e., their Selk'nam neighbors from Tierra del Fuego), is one of the planetโs outstanding maritime passages. This interoceanic strait, approximately 270 kilometers long, connects the Atlantic and Pacific oceans at the very southern tip of South America, separating the main island of Tierra del Fuego from an archipelago of smaller islands between 54ยฐ50โฒ and 55ยฐ00โฒ south latitude.
The east part of the Beagle channel (c) Karukinka
For us, who regularly sail these legendary waters, Onashagaโthe Beagle Channelโmeans much more than a simple maritime passage: itโs a world of its own, where two oceans meet and where seven millennia of Yagan navigation still resonate.
Table des matiรจres
The genesis of the landscape: a glacial heritage
When ice sculpted the channels
The formation of the Beagle Channel is a prime example of Quaternary glacial sculpting, which has shaped one of the most spectacular southern hemisphere landscapes. During repeated Pleistocene glaciations, glaciers hundreds of meters thick excavated valleys like Carbajal and Lake Kami (Fagnano), creating the regionโs complex topography.
Photography of the Carbajal Valley by Lauriane Lemasson, during the 2013 expedition in Argentine Tierra del Fuego
The glacier responsible for forming the Beagle Canal moved from west to east, fed by the Darwin Range, where glaciers and snowfieldsโremnants of this genesisโcan still be seen today. This glacial process left behind moraine deposits in the shallower areas, especially around Gable Island and off the Ushuaia Bay, creating today's bathymetric complexities.
The tectonic structure underlying the channel is a longitudinal tectonic valley, later modified by glacial action. The combination of tectonic and glacial processes resulted in a morphology with semi-isolated basins as deep as 400 meters, separated by shallow topographic sills that control water mass circulation.
A complex submarine architecture
The Beagle Channelโs bathymetry reveals a complex architecture dominated by a series of shallow sills, dividing the channel into several distinct micro-environments. In the western sector, the Diablo Island sill (approx. 50 meters deep) and the Fleuriais Bay sill (about 100 meters) separate the northwestern and southwestern branches from the central sector.
This bathymetric setup generates a complex circulation system, with sills acting as barriers that limit the exchange of deep water masses, creating micro-environments with distinctive physical, chemical, and biological properties.
It is this diversity of habitats that makes the Beagle Channel such a rich and unique ecosystem, as explained by Centro IDEAL researchers who have studied these waters for years.
East part of the Beagle channel
Hydrographic system
The meeting of oceans
The Beagle Canal acts as an interoceanic corridor that facilitates the transport of surface waters from the Pacific to the Atlantic, a flow mainly driven by the difference in sea level between the two oceans and the influence of strong westerly winds within the Antarctic Circumpolar Current.
The Cape Horn current is the primary source of water entering the channel, bringing subantarctic water (SAAW) at depths greater than 100 meters along the edge of the Patagonian Pacific shelf. This water enters via a submarine canyon at the western mouth of the channel, characterized by temperatures of 8โ9ยฐC, salinity above 33, and relatively low oxygen concentrations.
Map illustrating the Cape Horn current (c) Karukinka
Waters that tell the story of the climate
Freshwater input from the Darwin Cordillera icefield generates a two-layer system, with a pronounced pycnocline separating vertical phytoplankton fluorescence. This estuarine water is cold (4โ6ยฐC), nutrient-poor, and highly oxygenated.
Time series analyses reveal that the annual cycle explains 75โ89% of ocean temperature variability, while the atmospheric cycle explains 53% of its variability.
These data allow us to understand how the channel reacts to climate change, emphasize oceanographers monitoring these waters.
A sanctuary for marine biodiversity
The realm of marine mammals
The channel hosts an exceptional diversity of marine mammals, internationally recognized as an important marine mammal area (IMMA), covering 26,572 kmยฒ from the channel to Cape Horn. This area is home to at least eleven primary marine mammal species, plus eight supporting species.
Among the year-round resident species are three small cetaceans: the Pealeโs dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis), the dusky dolphin (L. obscurus), and the Burmeisterโs porpoise (Phocoena spinipinnis), along with two pinnipeds: the South American sea lion (Otaria byronia) and the South American fur seal (Arctocephalus australis).
Colony of South American fur seals in the Beagle Channel, near Ushuaia Bay, photographed in April 2025 during a sailing expedition
We have had the chance to observe these Pealeโs dolphins during our voyages across Patagoniaโs channels, from the channelโs eastern mouth to Cook Bay at its southwestern end. Their close association with kelp forests is fascinating: they undertake 40.5% of their feeding and 14.3% of their hunting behaviors there.
The underwater kelp forests
The underwater forests of Macrocystis pyrifera, locally known as โcachiyuyos,โ are among the channelโs most important ecosystems, extending from the Valdรฉs Peninsula to Tierra del Fuego. These forests provide a critical habitat, acting as nursery grounds, refuges, and feeding areas for an exceptionally diverse range of marine species.
Doctoral research by Adriana Milena Cruz Jimรฉnez revealed the complexity of fish assemblages associated with these forests, examining various strata: the lower area at the holdfast and the mid-water area at the fronds.
The ichthyological diversity found in these kelp forests highlights their vital role in marine biodiversity, explains this specialist.
A delicate balance under threat
The pattern of nutrient distribution in the Beagle Channel varies distinctly among its water masses. The system is notably nitrate-limited, with an N:P ratio of 8.42, consistent across all water masses. This directly influences the channelโs primary productivity.
Phytoplankton biomass is generally moderate and limited to the upper pycnocline in the western sector, while mixing over sills disrupts stratification, pushing phytoplankton cells beneath the photic zone, which can limit primary production.
Local scientists insist that understanding these mechanisms is crucial to preserving the unique balance of this ecosystem.
The Yagan cultural heritage: the Onashaga (Beagle) Channel
Seven millennia of navigation
The name Onashaga means โchannel of the Ona huntersโ in the Yagan language and reflects the profound connection between this maritime people and these waters for around 7,000 years. The Yagan developed a nomadic culture based entirely on exploiting marine resources and constant navigation of the Fuegian archipelago, adapting to an environment Europeans found utterly inhospitable.
When we sail these waters, we still feel the presence of those ancient navigators, as our crew members testify. Their traditional territory extended from the southern coast of the main Tierra del Fuego island (Onaisin) to the Cape Horn archipelago, including the Onashaga. This toponym is one of the many native place names erased from official maps by colonization, which we must now reclaim to restore meaning rooted in the landโs first inhabitants.
The channel as an archaeological witness
Archaeological evidence along the Beagle Channel reveals human occupation stretching back millennia, with shell middens, lithic tool workshops, fish traps, and ancient campsites.
Notable archaeological sites include evidence of ancient Yagan settlement at places like Wulaia Bay on Navarino Island, indicating occupation over 7,000 years ago.
The legacy of great explorations
In the footsteps of Darwin and FitzRoy
The channel is named after HMS Beagle, the British ship that conducted the first hydrographic survey of southern South Americaโs coasts from 1826 to 1830. The European discovery of the channel occurred in April 1830, when the Beagle was anchored in Orange Bay (southeast Hoste Island).
During the second expedition (1831โ1836), FitzRoy brought along Charles Darwin as a self-financed naturalist. Darwin saw his first glaciers there in January 1833, writing in his journal: โIt is almost impossible to imagine anything more beautiful than the beryl-blue of these glaciers, especially contrasted with the dead white of the upper snow stretches.โ
And to travel there regularly... it is always a wonder! Patagonia sailing expedition, February 2025 (Karukinka)
Darwinโs meticulous observations of the regionโs geology, fauna, and indigenous populations provided key evidence for his understanding of adaptation and geographic species distribution.
The channel thus became one of the seminal natural laboratories in the history of natural sciences.
From mapping to geopolitical conflict
The hydrographic surveys by Captain FitzRoy and crew laid the groundwork for modern navigation in the region, followed by those from the Cape Horn Scientific Mission. However, this mapping precision also revealed the strategic importance of the channel, which would become a historic source of geopolitical tensions between Chile and Argentina.
The Beagle conflict of 1978 brought the nations to the brink of war over three small islandsโPicton, Lennox, and Nuevaโwhose sovereignty would determine control over vast maritime territories. The dispute was resolved by papal mediation, with Pope John Paul II playing a crucial role, leading to the treaty of peace and friendship of 1984.
In yellow, the islands involved in the Beagle Conflict of 1978
Modern science in the service of knowledge
A monitored natural laboratory
Today, the channel is one of the best-studied subantarctic marine systems, serving as a comprehensive regional sentinel of global change. Since October 2016, Chileโs Austral Universityโs Centro IDEAL has conducted annual hydrographic transects from the western end to Yendegaia Bay.
A major milestone was achieved in JulyโAugust 2017 with the first complete, high-resolution oceanographic survey along the entire channel, carried out through cooperation between Centro IDEAL and an Argentine expedition on the research vessel Bernardo Houssay. This international collaboration generated, for the first time, a complete hydrographic section of the channel, say the researchers involved.
The sailing vessel Bernardo Houssay, of the Argentine Naval Prefecture, upon its arrival at the port of Ushuaia in 2021 (source)
Unique scientific challenges
Research in the Beagle Channel faces unique challenges due to its remote location, complex geomorphology, and shared jurisdiction between Chile and Argentina, historically limiting coordinated research. Future needs include studies on processes within each semi-enclosed basin and implementation of coupled atmosphere-ocean-glacier models to determine residence times.
Such research is crucial to understanding how this ecosystem will respond to future climate change.
Threats and conservation issues
The challenges of climate change
This channel faces unprecedented threats from climate change: rising temperatures, shifting precipitation patterns, and ocean acidification, all threatening the ecosystemโs delicate balance. Glacier retreat has accelerated dramatically in recent decades, altering freshwater contributions and potentially affecting marine productivity.
Changes have already been observed during our expeditions: the retreat of glaciers between 2018 and 2025 left a lasting impression. Scientists closely monitor these changes, using the region as a natural laboratory to understand wider impacts of climate change.
The salmon farming controversy
The expansion of the salmon farming industry into the region has been categorically rejected by organizations grouped within the Forum for the Conservation of the Patagonian Sea, which express concern over potentially catastrophic and irreversible damage to one of the regionโs most precious marine ecosystems.
We strongly support this position: the channelโs pristine waters are home to one of the worldโs greatest biodiversity reserves, with great heterogeneity in coastal-marine habitats containing numerous understudied marine invertebrates and vertebrates. Introduction of non-native species such as salmon is considered โterrible and riskyโ for this ecosystem by leading researchers. Fish-farm salmon escapes upstream have led to โwild salmonโ appearing in the Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve, now threatening endemic species such as robalo.
An example of a salmon caught by Josรฉ near the northern arm of the Beagle Channel during one of our sailing expeditions in 2025 (photo Christine Stein, Karukinka Association
A challenge of international and multicultural preservation and cooperation
Since 2005, in order to preserve this natural marvel, most islands south of the Beagle are part of the Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve, managed by UNESCO, CONAF, and the Chilean Navy. This designation acknowledges the ecosystem's outstanding importance and establishes long-term conservation frameworks.
We believe that preserving Yagan culture and integrating their ancestral knowledge is essential to understanding and protecting this unique ecosystem. Including Yagan traditional ecological knowledge in contemporary environmental management represents an opportunity to develop innovative approaches to conservation. Knowledge of navigation, climate observation, marine resources, and seasonal cycles forms a scientific heritage of great value, complementing modern research methodologies.
Bibliography
Scientific sources
Ferreyra, G. & Gonzรกlez, H. โGeneral hydrography of the Beagle Channel, a subantarctic interoceanic passage at the southern tip of South America.โ Frontiers in Marine Science, September 30, 2021.
Marine Mammal Protected Areas Task Force. โBeagle Channel to Cape Horn IMMA โ Marine Mammal Protected Areas Task Force.โ Marine Mammal Habitat, March 18, 2024.
Lodolo, E., Menichetti, M. & Tassone, A. โShallow architecture of Fuegian Andes lineaments based on marine geophysical data.โ Andean Geology, vol. 45, no. 1, 2018.
Institutional publications
Yaghanโs, explorers and settlers.Museo Yaganusi, Government of Chile. PDF document, 2021.
Canal Beagle sin salmoneras.Mar Patagรณnico, regional declaration, 2024.
The Beagle Channel free from salmon farming.Mar Patagรณnico, regional statement, 2024.
Phytoplankton biodiversity and water quality in the Beagle Channel, Argentina, 2017โ2021.Government of Argentina, PDF document.
Articles
El Rompehielos. โThe importance of marine biodiversity in the Beagle Channel.โ January 29, 2020.
Radio del Mar. โBeagle Channel is a key research ecosystem for marine biology.โ May 22, 2023.
Centro IDEAL. โScientists unravel the structure of the Beagle Channel.โ November 11, 2021.
Audiovisual docs
โDiscovery of the Beagle Channel.โYouTube, June 20, 2021.
โThe importance of marine biodiversity in the Beagle Channel.โYouTube, January 29, 2020.
Conservation organizations
Rewilding Chile. โBeagle Channel: exploring the end of the world.โ September 3, 2023.
Rewilding Chile. โCanal Beagle: explorando el confรญn del mundo.โ September 3, 2023.
Table of content : sailing patagonian channels part 1
Tuesday, January 28, 2025: Departure of the sailing expedition in the Chilean Patagonian Channels
A tough wake-up this morning; the night was short and the previous day was busy, as always before an 18-day sailing expedition in theย Cap Horn biosphere reserve, the southern Chilean fjords : provisioning, supply runsโฆ a host of things that, of course, can only be done last minute inย Ushuaia!
The crew of Milagro, association Karukinka, in Ushuaia (Photo Pascal Madert)
So, 8 a.m., breakfast, and quite a crowd for this breakfast. Yesterday, we welcomed 5 new crewmates: Annick and Jacques, the Gers natives aboard, Pascal from Grenoble, Alain from Vannes, and Franรงoise from Paris๏ปฟ; their common point: theyโre all happy retirees! With Aude๏ปฟ, who simply refuses to leave the boat, Damien, Lauriane, and myself, that makes 9 crew members!
Sailiboats at the pontoon in Ushuaia Nautical club (P. Madert)Departure dinner ! (P. Madert)The traditional fuegian asado (lamb) (P. Madert)
Once everyone is settled, the ritual begins: completing formalities with the local authorities in Ushuaia๏ปฟ. For every trip, you have to visit the naval prefecture๏ปฟ, immigration, and customs, both on the Argentinian๏ปฟ and Chilean๏ปฟ side! After this, we get a standard inspection, as often happens, such as at Bahia San Blas๏ปฟ during our offshore cruise along the Argentinian Patagonia from Buenos Aires๏ปฟ. Usually, itโs mainly a check of the boatโs papers, communication, and safety equipmentโฆ and it always goes smoothly!
With all these requirements, we donโt leave Ushuaia๏ปฟ until 1 p.m., arriving at Puerto Williams๏ปฟ, the southernmost city in the world, on Navarino Island๏ปฟ (province of Cape Horn๏ปฟ and Chilean Antarctic๏ปฟ), after a smooth crossing. We anchor in front of the city, as there is no space at the fishing port, and near the famous Micalvi๏ปฟ, the pontoon-boat and historic local heritage known to sailors passing through before heading further south. A bit later, another French sailboat, which has been in the region a long time, anchors next to us: the Podorange๏ปฟ.
The sailing yachts Milagro and Podorange anchoring in Puerto Williams bay (Cabo de Hornos, Chili)Rainbow over the city of Puerto WilliamsThe Micalvi marina (P. Madert)The inside of the Micalvi, several tens of sailing expeditions represented (P. Madert)The end of the world ! (P. Madert)Puerto Williams, city of the Cape Horn and Chilean Antarctic region (P. Madert)
Wednesday, January 29, 2025๏ปฟ: Awaiting formalities โ hiking on Navarino Island๏ปฟ!
This morning, and since weโre in Chile๏ปฟ, itโs back to entry formalities with the various authorities. So, a day on land for everyone: Lauriane and Damien๏ปฟ tackle the paperwork marathon, Alain and Annick๏ปฟ go for a walk along the Beagle Channel๏ปฟ shore, and Pascal, Franรงoise, Jacques, Aude, and I๏ปฟ set out to climb the โschoolโ summit above the village: Cerro Bandera๏ปฟ. This 600m peak offers a panoramic view of the surroundings.
Access to this summit is an exception in the region: itโs one of the few with a well-maintained, marked trail, making the climb easy. Most of the time elsewhere, you have to find your own way โ nature is everywhere and only reveals itself after real effort!
Itโs a beautiful ascent, pleasant after leaving a 4x4 track: we cross remarkableย Fuegian forest, then low, dense shrubs battered by winds, before reaching the bare mineral zone, where only moss survives โ nearing the summit. The sky is overcast but calm, and visibility excellent. From various points, you admire, at different elevations, the channel and surrounding peaksโฆ
View of Puerto WilliamsIn the middle, on the left side : our Milagro ! (P. Madert)The Onashaga (Beagle channel) separating Navarino island and Tierra del Fuego islandThe summit of the cerro BanderaPart of the crew at the summit of Cerro Bandera (Navarino island, Chile) Photo Aude Grillault-LarocheThe flora on the summit of cerro Bandera (P. Madert)
Everyone climbs at their own pace and meets at the top, marked by a cairn capped with aย Chilean flag. From the summit, you see various trails suggesting many multi-day hikes to explore this island; itโs quite stirringโฆ!
The kind weather means we have a picnic and a restorative nap, before heading back down the same way, ending up in a cozy tea room. Back on board by 6:30 p.m. for a quiet evening after a great walk.
Thursday, January 30, 2025: heading west in theย Beagle channel, towardย Hoste island
Up at 6 a.m., departing at 7 a.m., we have a long way to go: we head west again, passย Ushuaiaย and continue toย Hoste Island. Sailing is calm, motoring for lack of wind. In early afternoon comes a surprise: the wind picks up, stormy, gusts up to 45 knots, theย Beagle Channelย reveals its bad-weather face, and itโs impressive. Only one sensible solution instead of motoring head-on: take cover.
We head forย Caleta Letierย (Dumas Peninsula,ย Hoste Island,ย Chilean fjords). The place is beautiful, a small, well-protected bay with forest trailing right to the shore. Anchoring, though, is less idyllicโฆ The anchor doesnโt catch โ so muchย kelpย on the bottom that itโs impossible; it comes up covered with mountains ofย kelpย and a bit of mud. Everything has to be cut away before trying againโexhausting and messy!! Finally, success:ย Milagroย is secure at anchor! Phew!!
Some lines on land to secure the anchoring in the caleta (P. Madert)et on reprend le mou ร bord, sans laisser la tension sur le winch en fin de manoeuvre ! (P. Madert)
Good thing too, because the unforecast storm is fierce: gusts at 40 knots, strong and sudden, tip Milagro๏ปฟ on its side, sheltering in the bay. In the channel itโs worse: gusts top 50 knots, the water turns white, wave crests are blown into a whiteout over the sea. The Chilean Navy๏ปฟ bans navigation for now, and Ushuaia๏ปฟ and Puerto Williams๏ปฟ ports close.
Anchorage in the caleta Letier (Hoste island, Cape Horn and Chilean Antarctica province, 30/01/2025)
The place is harsh but gorgeous: coves, forest, and mountains everywhereโฆ.
Friday, January 31, 2025: First glimpse of theย Darwin Cordilleraย glaciers and anchoring in a bay onย Gordon Island
8 a.m.: a morning stroll on deck โ magnificent! The wind is down, even the channel is calm. A delicious moment of peace, alone at the end of the caleta๏ปฟ.
We head west,ย Hoste Islandย to port,ย Tierra del Fuegoย to starboard, and in the distance,ย Darwin Rangeย glaciers sparkle in the sun. The scenery is breathtaking โ channels bordered by denseย Fuegian subantarctic forest, mountains, and glacier-topped peaks. Itโs extraordinary to be in one of the last places on Earth where nature reigns and humans are nearly absent.
We enter the southern arm of the channel; Hoste Island๏ปฟ remains to port, and now, to starboard, the Gordon Island๏ปฟ coast follows Tierra del Fuego๏ปฟ. We pass tall glaciers, hugely diminished by climate change๏ปฟ: like the mountains, polar zones are most affectedโฆ. We turn into an unmapped fjord and follow it up several km to anchor at its end, beneath a waterfall and a stream from a melting glacier. The glacier towers above, fresh and grand: we are in Caleta Eva Luna๏ปฟ. The place is sublime, and the joy on Laurianeโs๏ปฟ face โ who recorded sounds and took photos here in 2018 โ says it all.
Walking in Eva Luna bay (Gordon island, Chile, 2025)Walk in Eva Luna Bay (Biosphere Reserve of Cape Horn, Chile, 2025)The subantarctic fuegian forest in Eva Luna bay (january 2025)And to see the same place in the middle of autumn photographed by Lauriane (mid-May 2018)
A short walk along the shore takes me back years too: the dense, impenetrable Fuegian forest๏ปฟ, the waterlogged boggy ground, all as I remember. Toupie๏ปฟ, our faithful four-legged mascot, delights in playing fetch with abundant sticks on the shore!
The sailing yacht Milagro anchored in Caleta Eva Luna, Gordon island, province of cape Horn and Chilean Antarctica, January 2025
Itโs a quiet night; we rest up to keep going west tomorrowโฆ To be continued in the next post ;-)
Karukinka, a non profit organization in Patagonia,ย invites you to write the next chapters of this unique epic โ where maps still read โunmapped.โ Joiningย Karukinkaย is more than joining an association: itโs embarking on an exceptional human and maritime adventure, reconciling modern exploration with ancestral memory.
Our association now gathersย a hundred members of 12 different nationalities, united by a passion for extreme lands and a strong commitment to Indigenous cultural preservation. Whether you are an experienced sailor, scientist, artist, or simply fascinated by wide spaces and just causes,ย Karukinkaย offers the unique chance to join sailing expeditions and a cartographic exploration project that will make history.
The Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve (Cape Horn Nature Reserve), established in 2005, is one of the southernmost and largest protected areas in the world, covering more than 4,884,000 hectares of southern lands and waters. It contains unique terrestrial and marine ecosystems, pristine subantarctic forests, remarkable biodiversityโincluding over 5% of the worldโs bryophyte diversityโand the populations of the Yaghan people, who maintain a millennia-old connection with these extreme landscapes.
Table des matiรจres
The Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve was included in UNESCOโs โMan and the Biosphereโ program in June 2005, becoming both the southernmost and one of the largest biosphere reserves in South America. Spanning about 4,884,274 hectares, it comprises a terrestrial area of 1,917,238 ha and a marine area of 2,967,036 ha, integrating for the first time in Chile both marine and terrestrial ecosystems under a unified conservation status. The Alberto de Agostini and Cape Horn National Parks form the core protected area, where all infrastructure development is strictly prohibited.
1. Geography and zoning of the Cape Horn nature reserve
Geographically, the reserve extends across the Tierra del Fuego archipelago, between 54.1ยฐ S and 56.2ยฐ S latitude, and 66.1ยฐ W and 72.5ยฐ W longitude. It includes the Wollaston, Hermite, Navarino, and Hoste islands, as well as channels (including the Beagle Channel), fjords, and currents that form a landscape shaped by glaciations and tectonic activity. The UNESCO MAB Reserve zoning (Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve, i.e., the southern Chilean marine reserve) is structured into three areas:
The core zone (Alberto de Agostini National Park including the Darwin Range, and Cape Horn National Park) is strictly protected.
The buffer zone, where light and sustainable activities are allowed.
The transition zone, including isolated villages like Puerto Williams and limited infrastructure under a sustainable development framework.
The reserveโs subantarctic forests are the southernmost on earth. Dominated by three Nothofagus speciesโN. pumilio, N. betuloides, and N. antarcticaโthey form both deciduous and evergreen stands, interspersed with peat bogs and alpine heaths. These forests are among the worldโs rare examples of non-fragmented temperate forest. The organic-rich soils support vast carpets of bryophytes, typical of the cool, humid environment; these play a crucial role in the hydrological cycle and carbon sequestration.
2.2 Marine and coastal ecosystems
The marine component of the reserve centers around a complex network of fjords, channels, and underwater plateaus. The Humboldt current and the mixing of cold Pacific and Atlantic waters have fostered the development of kelp forests (Macrocystis pyrifera, Durvillaea antarctica) forming โunderwater forestsโ that host diverse invertebrate fauna and fish communities. Intertidal habitats harbor macroalgae species and numerous endemic invertebrates, while the cold, oxygen-rich waters support populations of seals, sea lions, and several cetacean species.
3. Biological diversity and endemism: subantarctic biodiversity
3.1 Bryophytes and lichens
With over 300 species of liverworts and 450 species of mosses, the reserve is a global hotspot for bryophytes, representing more than 5% of global diversity on less than 0.01% of the worldโs land surface. These communities, described as โminiature forests,โ serve as sentinels for assessing the impacts of climate change and rising UV radiation.
Example of bryophytes / miniature forest (mosses, liverworts, and lichens) from the Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve (MAB-UNESCO); Navarino Island, 2020 (c) Lauriane Lemasson.
3.2 Terrestrial and marine fauna
Terrestrial fauna include the southern river otter (Lontra provocax), the Magellanic woodpecker (Campephilus magellanicus), and other endemic birds. In the marine environment, the surrounding waters are home to black-browed albatross, giant petrels, Magellanic penguins, and stable populations of fur seals and leopard seals, highlighting the ecological importance of this protected area.
A black Carancho from Martial Bay (Cape Horn Reserve, April 10, 2025, during a sailing expedition at Cape Horn and in the Patagonian channels)Whales in the Beagle Channel during the 2018 expedition (Karukinka Association)
4. Biocultural dimension and Yaghan ethnology
The reserve is also a cultural sanctuary. The Yaghan, nomadic people of the southern channels, are the worldโs southernmost indigenous group, with a presence dating back over 7,500 years, as evidenced by archaeological sites on Navarino Island. They continue to possess expert knowledge of canoe navigation and subantarctic ecology, and have actively participated in research within the reserve, particularly through the Omora Ethnobotanical Park near Puerto Williams. Their oral traditions, language, and knowledge of local flora and fauna are incorporated into educational and conservation programs. Ecotourism in Patagonia is also a key activity of the Omora initiative.
5. Governance and management
The reserve is managed by a board chaired by the regional governor, involving public agencies and local organizations. The scientific committee, coordinated by the Omora Park and the University of Magallanes, leads research, ecological monitoring, and participatory conservation efforts. In 2006, the reserve joined UNESCOโs Ibero-MAB network, strengthening transnational cooperation for research and training.
6. Threats and conservation challenges
Despite its isolation, the reserve faces several threats:
Uncontrolled tourism development, particularly southern cruises and increased traffic around Cape Horn, poses risks of pollution and disturbance to marine wildlife.
Intensive salmon farming in northern fjords introduces exotic species and degrades water quality. Salmon now breed in these waters, impacting native species such as the robalo.
The spread of introduced species such as the North American beaver and mink threatens riparian forests, streamside habitats, and shorebird nesting sites.
Long-term monitoring programs, such as the Omora initiative and Long-Term Ecological Research (LTER) stations, assess these pressures and propose adaptive measures. However, monitoring is hampered by the vastness of the reserve and its logistical challenges.
Lake created at the foot of a glacier by beavers, photographed during a sailing expedition in Patagonia (Beagle Channel, Hoste Island, Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve, Chile).
7. Research and education initiatives
7.1 Omora Ethnobotanical Park
Founded in 2000, the Omora Ethnobotanical Park is at the center of a transdisciplinary approach combining ecology, environmental philosophy, and โfield philosophyโ education. It offers educational trails, including โminiature forests,โ to raise public awareness of bryophyte diversity and the link between biodiversity and Yaghan culture.
7.2 Cape Horn International Center (CHIC)
Inaugurated in 2020 in Puerto Williams, CHIC brings together researchers, artists, and indigenous communities to develop a model for biocultural conservation, technical training, and sustainable development. Its programs address the responses of biodiversity to climate change, the management of invasive species, and the formulation of public policy adapted to subantarctic zones.
The Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve remains one of the rare refuges where harmonious coexistence between local inhabitants and ecosystems at the literal edge of the world is fully realized. Securing its future means strengthening participatory governance, managing invasive species, and supervising polar tourism under the banner of responsible ecotourism. Finally, the ongoing integration of Yaghan knowledge in research and education programs will ensure the preservation of both the biological and cultural heritage of this unique subantarctic sanctuary.
Pia Glacier, Patagonian Channels, Darwin Range, Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve, Magallanes, Chile, 2025
Bibliography
Rozzi, R. et al. (2006). Ten Principles for Biocultural Conservation at the Southern Tip of the Americas: The Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve. Ecology and Society, 11(1). https://www.ecologyandsociety.org/vol11/iss1/art43/
Rozzi, R. et al. (2004). Omora Ethnobotanical Park: A Model for Integrating Biocultural Conservation and Environmental Philosophy in the Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve. Environmental Ethics, 26(2), 131โ169. https://doi.org/10.5840/enviroethics200426226
Mittermeier, R. A. et al. (2003). Hotspots: Earthโs Biologically Richest and Most Endangered Terrestrial Ecoregions. Conservation International. https://www.conservation.org
CONAF (Corporaciรณn Nacional Forestal). (2023). Reserva de la Biรณsfera Cabo de Hornos. Gobierno de Chile. https://www.chilebosque.cl
Cape Horn International Center (CHIC). (2021). CHIC Strategic Plan 2021โ2026. Universidad de Magallanes. https://www.centrochic.cl
Anderson, C.B. et al. (2011). Exotic ecosystem engineers transform sub-Antarctic forest structure and function. Biological Invasions, 13, 545โ561. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10530-010-9841-4
Anderson, C.B. et al. (2019). Cape Hornโs Lessons for Sustainability. Science Advances (UNESCO CHIC/UMAG). https://advances.sciencemag.org/
Rozzi, R. et al. (2010). La Reserva de Biรณsfera Cabo de Hornos: una propuesta educativa y de desarrollo sustentable en el extremo austral de Chile. Universidad de Magallanes. Disponible sur la bibliothรจque CHIC.
Cape Horn (Cabo de Hornos in Spanish, Kaap Hoorn in Dutch, Lokรถshpi in the Yaghan language) is far more than just a geographic point. Located at 55ยฐ58โฒ south latitude and 67ยฐ16โฒ west longitude, this rocky promontory at 425 meters above sea level marks the southernmost point of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago and symbolically marks the meeting of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. At 965 kilometers from the Antarctic continent and just 138 kilometers from Ushuaia, Cape Horn rises as the ultimate sentinel of the Americas before the vastness of the Southern Ocean.
Table des matiรจres
Geographical Position of Cape Horn
Location within the Fuegian archipelago
Cape Horn is situated on Horn Island (Isla Hornos), the southernmost island of the Hermite archipelago, itself part of the vast island complex of Tierra del Fuego. This modestly sized island (approximately 6 km by 2 km) is administratively part of the commune of Cabo de Hornos, in the Antarctic Province, within the Magallanes and Chilean Antarctic Region.
Contrary to popular belief, Cape Horn is not the southernmost point of the South American continent โ that title belongs to the Diego Ramรญrez Islands, located 105 kilometers to the west-southwest. However, Cape Horn remains the southernmost of the great historical sailing capes and the most symbolic nautical waypoint in the Southern Hemisphere.
Precise Coordinates and Strategic Distances
With exact coordinates of 55ยฐ58โฒ28โณ south latitude and 67ยฐ16โฒ10โณ west longitude, Cape Horn lies at a unique geographical intersection where the major oceans of the Southern Hemisphere converge:
Distance from Ushuaia (Argentina): 138 km to the north-northwest
Distance from Puerto Williams (Chile): 56 km to the north
Distance from the Antarctic continent: 965 km to the south
Distance from the geographic South Pole: 2,535 km
Geographic map showing Cape Horn at the southern tip of South America, adjacent waters including Drake Passage, and nearby islands located in the Pacific, Atlantic, and Southern Oceans. (Source : Wikipedia)
Geological Formation and Geomorphology
Regional geological context
The Cape Horn region is embedded in the complex geological history of Tierra del Fuego, shaped by Andean orogeny and Quaternary glaciations. The archipelago was formed through a process of collapse and fragmentation of the southern tip of the Andes, amplified by glacial erosion and rising sea levels following the last Ice Age.
The geological formations of Horn Island consist mainly of sedimentary and volcanic strata from the Upper Cretaceous period, bearing witness to the intense tectonic activity related to the closure of the Rocas Verdes marginal basin and the early stages of Andean compression. This explains the rugged topography of the region, characterized by moderate elevations but extremely fragmented coastlines.
Coastal Morphology
To sailors, Cape Horn appears as a 425-meter cliff dropping directly into the ocean. This distinctive coastal morphology is the result of marine erosion, Quaternary glacial-interglacial cycles, and ongoing tectonic activity.
The Magellan-Fagnano Fault, a left-lateral strike-slip fault running eastโwest through Tierra del Fuego, indirectly influences the geomorphology of the Cape Horn region. With a movement rate of approximately 6.4 mm/year, this fault is a reminder of the continuous tectonic activity that shapes this part of the world.
Cape Horn marks the northern boundary of the Drake Passage, an 809-kilometer-wide strait separating South America from the Antarctic Peninsula. This strait represents the shortest distance between Antarctica and any other continental landmass, only 135 kilometers wide at its narrowest point, between Cape Horn and Snow Island in the South Shetlands.
Map of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current and Seawater Density Fronts Around Antarctica, Showing Ocean Depth and Main Fronts Near the Southern Ocean and Surrounding Continents (source : Wikipedia)
Antarctic Circumpolar Current
The Drake Passage is the point of maximum constriction of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC) โ the most powerful ocean current on Earth. The ACC transports an average of 150 million cubic meters of water per second โ nearly 100 times the combined flow of all the worldโs rivers. Its strength peaks at Cape Horn.
This oceanographic phenomenon is the main driver of the extreme weather conditions in the region. With no continental barriers, the ACC fuels the relentless west winds known as the “Roaring Forties” and “Furious Fifties”.
Subpolar Oceanic Climate
Cape Horn enjoys a subpolar oceanic climate, with relatively stable yet cold year-round temperatures. Average temperatures hover around 5ยฐC, and the area receives up to 2,000 mm of rainfall annually, with nearly 278 days of rain per year.
Wind is the dominant climatic factor, averaging 30 km/h but frequently exceeding 100 km/h during storms. These conditions are directly linked to Cape Hornโs position within the zone of the Furious Fifties โ a corridor of uninterrupted westerly winds that circle the Southern Hemisphere.
Biodiversity and Conservation Status
Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve (UNESCO)
Since 2005, Cape Horn has been part of the Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve, recognized by UNESCO under the Man and the Biosphere Programme (MAB). The reserve spans 4,884,273 hectares, encompassing a core area of 1,347,417 hectares composed of the Alberto de Agostini National Park and Cape Horn National Park.
The southernmost part of Horn island during a sailing expedition to cape Horn with SY Milagro (Association Karukinka, 2025)
Cabo de Hornos National Park
The Cabo de Hornos National Park, created on April 26, 1945, spans 63,093 hectares and includes the Wollaston and Hermite archipelagos. It is the southernmost protected area on the planet, hosting unique subantarctic ecosystems adapted to harsh climatic conditions.
Exceptional Biodiversity
The Cape Horn region is home to the southernmost forest ecosystem in the world and harbors 5% of the planetโs bryophyte species (mosses and liverworts).
The flora comprises Magellanic subpolar forests, dominated by Nothofagus species (southern beeches), alongside rich communities of mosses, lichens, and ferns adapted to extreme cold and humidity.
Primary forest in Tekenika Bay (Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve, Karukinka Expedition, 2018)
The marine fauna is equally impressive: humpback whales, southern dolphins, South American sea lions, elephant seals, and orcas are frequently observed. The birdlife is dominated by black-browed albatrosses, giant petrels, Magellanic penguins, imperial cormorants, and even Andean condors.
Whales observed during a sailing expedition through the Patagonian channels (Chile) autumn 2018 (c) Karukinka
Maritime History and European Discovery
The Discovery of 1616
Cape Horn was discovered on January 29, 1616, during a Dutch expedition led by Willem Schouten and Jacob Le Maire. They sought an alternative to the Strait of Magellan to bypass the trade monopoly of the Dutch East India Company.
The cape was named in honor of the Dutch town of Hoorn, the expeditionโs port of origin. This discovery profoundly altered maritime trade routes by offering a new corridor โ broader than the Strait of Magellan, but vastly more dangerous.
A Historic Trade Route
For nearly three centuries, Cape Horn was a crucial maritime passage for global trade routes. Large sailing ships โ known as โCape Hornersโ โ traversed these waters carrying goods between Europe, the Americas, and Asia: including nitrate, grain, wool, and gold from Australia.
The era of the great sailing ships ended with the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914. The last commercial sailing vessel to round the Horn was the Pamir, in 1949, marking the close of a legendary chapter in maritime history.
One of the many maps produced during the French Cape Horn Mission (1882โ1883) led by Commander Martial
Indigenous Context and Cultural Memory
The First Inhabitants
Before European colonization (1860โ1920), the Cape Horn region was solely inhabited by the Yaghan people (also Yรกmana) โ marine nomads who navigated these waterways in bark canoes. These hunter-gatherers developed an extraordinary maritime culture adapted to the severe subantarctic climate.
The Cape Horn promontory was called Lokรถshpi in the Yaghan language, reflecting a rich indigenous toponymy. According to research by Karukinka Association, over 3,000 indigenous place names (in Yaghan, Haush, and Selkโnam) have been recorded in the area, revealing a detailed and sensitive knowledge of the landscape.
Preservation and Memory Work
For over a decade, the Karukinka Association, founded by Lauriane Lemasson in 2014, has worked to archive, preserve, and honor the memory of the indigenous cultures of the Cape Horn region. Their expeditions in the Patagonian channels, from Tierra del Fuego to Cape Horn, have contributed to sound archives, toponymic mapping, and cultural education.
This work is all the more crucial when one considers that these peoples experienced cultural genocide in the early 20th century, their population declining from over 10,000 individuals to fewer than 500 by 1920.
Contemporary Challenges and Futures
Tourism and Conservation
Cape Horn now attracts a growing number of expedition cruises, mostly departing from Ushuaia or Punta Arenas. While weather constraints limit visitor numbers, increased traffic poses conservation challenges for fragile ecosystems.
Chile maintains a military base on Horn Island, with a garrison, a chapel, and a lighthouse. The lighthouse keeper and their family constitute the only permanent inhabitants of this isolated place.
The Cape Horn lighthouse with the Cape promontory in the background during the rounding of Cape Horn by sailboat in April 2025 (Karukinka Expedition, sailing vessel Milagro)
Scientific Research
Cape Horn continues to be a site of important scientific research, particularly regarding climate change, oceanography, and subantarctic biodiversity. The work of the Karukinka Association and its partners contributes to the growing body of knowledge on extreme ecosystems undergoing rapid transformation.
Conclusion
Cape Horn occupies a unique place on the globe โ both physically and symbolically. Situated at the southern tip of Horn Island in the Hermite archipelago, at 55ยฐ58โฒ South and 67ยฐ16โฒ West, it marks the symbolic point of convergence between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, between the Americas and Antarctica.
Its geographic position explains its extreme oceanographic and climatic conditions, forged over millennia of tectonic, glacial, and atmospheric dynamics. The Antarctic Circumpolar Current, the furious westerly winds, and the legendary nature of the Drake Passage make this one of the most dangerous maritime zones in the world.
Yet beyond the physical landscape lies a story of human history, resilience, tragedy, and conservation โ from the Yaghan navigators to the Dutch explorers, from the age of sail to the fight to protect its fragile ecosystems.
To understand Cape Horn is to grasp the essence of a place where extremity meets universality, and where the end of the world becomes a mirror of the planetโs past, present, and future.
The new vessel, Milagro, serves as a cornerstone for Karukinkaโs operations. More than a means of transportation, this 20-meter steel ketch is a fully equipped, autonomous floating base that allows Karukinka to carry out ambitious scientific, artistic, and cultural expeditions in Patagonia, Cape Horn, and even Antarctica #patagonia sailing
A versatile floating base camp in insular Patagonia
Milagroย is an expedition sailboat acquired by the Karukinka Association in 2023 thanks to the support of its members. This 20โmetre (64ft) Bruce Roberts steel ketch plays a fundamental role in the implementation of our associationโs activities. Built in Sweden and having already completed two circumnavigations, theย Milagroย is a true โfloating base campโ able to host a range of initiatives โ artistic, scientific, or sporting.
With its tailored technical features (length 20โฏm, beam 5.25โฏm, draft 2.30โฏm, Cummins 180โฏHP engine, 180โฏmยฒ upwind sail area and 295โฏmยฒ downwind), the Milagro provides a robust, wellโadapted platform for our expeditions in polar and subpolar regions, Karukinkaโs primary fields of activity.
The sailing vessel Milagro at the foot of a glacier in the Darwin Range, Tierra del Fuego, Patagonian Channels, Chile (Photograph: Diego Quiroga, from the sailing yacht Pic La Lune, Ushuaia)
A support vessel for the logistics of our scientific, sporting, and artistic expeditions
An infrastructure adapted to field research
The Milagro is an essential logistical support for Karukinkaโs scientific and artistic expeditions. Fully equipped and insulated, the vessel can host up to 12 people (10 for projects lasting more than a week) in five cabins (four doubles and one quadruple). This large capacity facilitates the creation of multidisciplinary teams, in line with our associationโs goal of bringing together sporting, artistic, and scientific expertise.
Her considerable autonomy (1,500โฏL of diesel, 1,000โฏL of water + desalination system, generator, solar panelsโฆ) allows her to reach remote areas and remain on site long enough to complete our work. The vessel is also equipped for telecommunications in zone A4 and has internet access, ensuring safety and connectivity even in the most isolated regions such as the Patagonian channels (Tierra del Fuego, Darwin Range, Cape Horn, Antarctica).
Exploration of a fjord in the Darwin Range (Tierra del Fuego) where one of Patagoniaโs many glaciers flows (sailing vessel Milagro, Chilean Fjords, March 2025)
A tool for ambitious projects
Thanks to Milagro, Karukinka has greatly expanded its activities, enabling truly independent scientific and artistic research expeditions and residencies. The vessel is crewed by a volunteer professional team of two to three holders of the French State Sailing Certificate and Merchant Navy qualification.
The acquisition of this yacht made possible, among others, the North Cape to Cape Horn Expedition (2023โ2025), a major project supported by the French Ministry of Cultureโs โMondes Nouveauxโ programme. This voyage, linking Norwayโs North Cape to Cape Horn under sail, concluded with arrival in Tierra del Fuego on 24 January 2025, after travelling over 15,000 nautical miles and rounding Cape Horn under sail in March and April 2025.
Milagro at anchor in one of the many bays of the Cape Horn Biosphere Reserve (2025)
Funding the associationโs activities
A sailing section for selfโfinancing
Since 2023, Karukinka has had a sailing section affiliated with the French Sailing Federation. The association offers sailing courses reserved for its members, which help fund its actions in support of indigenous peoples and ensure the delivery of ambitious projects.
Given the budget required to maintain and operate a 20โmetre yacht โ and the scope of the associationโs longโterm projects (digitising documents and archives, creating online databases, funding travel to Europe for members of indigenous communities) โ Karukinkaโs Annual General Assembly sets the membership fee needed to take part in the various sailing activities and thus sustain its work.
Sailing in the Patagonian Channels with our members from Scotland and Belgium: Norena, David, Morag, and Morgan (Beagle Channel, Chile, February 2025)
Supporting independent research
Aware of the difficulties laboratories and researchers face in obtaining funding for work in polar and subpolar regions, Karukinka does everything it can to support projects of a scientific, artistic, sporting, or humanistic nature. The Milagro plays a crucial role in this selfโfinancing and independent researchโsupport strategy.
Artisanal fishing in the Patagonian Channels with Josรฉ Germรกn Gonzalez Calderรณn (fisherman and Yagan craftsman, honorary member of Karukinka and godfather of the vessel, from Navarino Island)
The association also offers services for field missions aboard Milagro to laboratories, institutes, and groups of researchers and/or artists. This approach allows resources to be pooled and makes difficultโtoโreach study areas more accessible.
A tool of freedom for future projects
The acquisition of Milagro has greatly broadened the horizons of our association. Thanks to this vessel, we now have full freedom to continue our actions and research south of the Strait of Magellan, from 2025 to 2030 and beyond.
The yacht allows the association to conduct multidisciplinary projects in hardโtoโreach regions such as the Patagonian Channels, Antarctica, and South Georgia. It also facilitates the continuation of work with the Selkโnam, Haush, and Yagan indigenous peoples of southern Patagonia, one of the associationโs main areas of focus.
Arrival of the sailing vessel Milagro in the Beagle Channel, Patagonia, after 15,000 nm (photograph by Josรฉ Germรกn Gonzรกlez Calderรณn, near Ukika Puerto Williams, Navarino Island, Cape Horn region, Chile, 2025)
The Milagro represents far more than just a means of transport and is not an end in itself, but a means. It is an essential strategic tool, allowing the association to fully carry out its mission of exploration, scientific research, and artistic creation in polar and subpolar regions.
Thanks to this vessel, Karukinka can undertake ambitious projects, selfโfinance its activities, support independent research, and continue its collaboration with indigenous peoples. The Milagro thus embodies the associationโs philosophy: independence, goodwill, and commitment to knowledge and the preservation of the cultures and environments of our planetโs extreme regions.
Departure of the expedition sailing vessel Milagro from the fishing port of Puerto Williams with an international crew (Argentina, Chile, and France): Aude, Lauriane, Sรฉbastien, Clรฉment, Alejandro, Shenรผ, Damien, Mirtha (godmother of the vessel), Alicia, Maria, and Vaรฏna, filmed by Josรฉ, the godfather of Milagro (January 2025).
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