Nice and safe in a loch on the west coast of Jura, we wait for the bad weather to go away and take advantage of the stopover to go for a walk, read and rest.
The plants which are usually ochre by the end of winter are currently going through their spring mutation and progressively turning into green. The ferns unfold gradually, and entire fields of blue flowers form a decorative patch under the horizon. The barnacle geese and the terns also make a stop with us in this loch and add to this sound landscape with the cries of the pheasants, the back and forth of the deer, the cormorants, the otters and the singing cuckoo. Bestowed with two bothies (unguarded refuges), this loch is also heaven for hikers who leave with just a tent and backpack from Craighouse harbour, the only village where the ferry calls at. Among a few hiking ideas for next time, we will keep in mind the Three Paps, the three main peaks of the island that are Beinn an Òir (the gold mountain in Gaelic, 785 m), Beinn Shiantaidh (the sacred mountain in Gaelic, 755 m) and Beinn a’ Chaolais (the mountain of the Strait in Gaelic, 734 m). As for the pronunciation, well, we’ll leave it to you!
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After this stopover, we resumed our route northbound. Our main goal was to anchor in a loch south of the isle of Mull, but the wind chose a different direction, and we eventually decided to change course and get closer to a mythical place, and not just for the sailors: Corryvreckan.
At the end of the afternoon, sail still raised, (NE wind scale 6 and choppy sea) and after checking the tide schedule three times and reading pretty much all the information around us (!), we slowly navigated towards the Strait and carried out, despite crossed currents, small swirls and other swells, towards the only mooring place of North Jura: Bagh Gleann nam Muc (The Pigs Bay).
The good weather conditions and the still are giving all of us time to imagine the same route under bad weather. The mooring at night was as peaceful as could be, after this beautiful sunset, safe from the wind.
[#5 Northbound – 2024] From Jura to Loch Melfort via Corryvreckan 19
The bad reputation of this Strait, approximately one nautical mile long, can be explained by several factors:
The shape of the bottoms: just imagine a great canyon under water and put a column in it (like finally reaching the top of Dibona for the mountain hikers who are reading this), which suddenly deepens the area from 50 to 220 m, into … 29m. This is where “eddies” or swirls are created, making Corryvreckan cave the 3rd biggest maelstrom in the world.
The impacts of the tides: you need to add the strong tide currents in this area as it is directly facing the Atlantic Ocean. The current can reach up to 8 knots, so if you don’t run the numbers correctly, on top of not going where you planned to, you might end up further than your starting point.
The impacts of the wind: if a wind blowing contrary to the current is added to the impacts of the tide, then it’s even worse because on top of not going forward (at best) or going backward (most probably the case), you will face waves going over 9 metres, and then, yay, you won your ticket on the Milagro, and you can tell us about it all in details !
And finally, as featured in pop culture and literature, stories of this place don’t usually omen anything good if the numbers aren’t run correctly. Here are a few examples: the grunting noise of the cave could be heard at more than 10 kms at worst times; for those who read Jules Verne, a quick look into Rayon Vert will transport you into this place just for a chapter; times and times again in history, the locals are said to have encouraged the enemy ships to come to this place to have them disappeared; and then the time when George Orwell navigated over here just before finishing 1984, his masterpiece, only a few metres from the Strait: Barnhill located on the east coast of Jura.
To sum it all, as you may have gathered, we have studied the matter a little bit before deciding to go ahead, and it is with even bigger precautions than the day before that we raised sail early in the morning and engaged into the crossing from west to east. The conditions were good and as anticipated, the main swirls fairly active on the northern side of the Strait. We were supposedly at the right time of the tide, and yet the crossing currents, at times, imposed the route to the Milagro and its 45 tons. Far away from any danger and far from going at full speed as a way to systematically struggle against it, it was quite fascinating to feel these movements (but also quite stressful for the helmsman). The murres were swept away by the current yet seemed happy to travel without any effort, sometimes plunging their neck in to catch passing food. From each side, the landscape showed cruel conditions: peeled off rock tainted with lichens and herbs and absolutely no grove of trees. It was only when we left that a small house perched on top of Scarba island appeared port side. Our decision was made: come back and experiment it under bad weather while sheltered inside the ship.
A few photos of this crossing under the sun and changing lights:
[#5 Northbound – 2024] From Jura to Loch Melfort via Corryvreckan 20[#5 Northbound – 2024] From Jura to Loch Melfort via Corryvreckan 21[#5 Northbound – 2024] From Jura to Loch Melfort via Corryvreckan 22[#5 Northbound – 2024] From Jura to Loch Melfort via Corryvreckan 23[#5 Northbound – 2024] From Jura to Loch Melfort via Corryvreckan 24
After stopping at Craobh Haven harbour, we head towards Loch Melfort, where Damien will see Kames Fish Farm fishing farm again.
After disembarking near the Bruidladdich pier, we left to visit the village of Port Charlotte by taking the coastal path and thus enjoying the colors of the sunset on Loch Indaal, the view of the lighthouse overlooking the Rubh’ An Duin (a little Gaelic: Rubha: promontory; Dun: fort, mound) and Kilchoman Parish Church.
On our return to Bruidladdich, we took a look at the opening hours of the distillery of the same name and producer of Port Charlotte, Bruidladdich and Octomore whiskies. This distillery is one of the nine distilleries present on the island of Islay and we decide to visit it tomorrow at the beginning of the afternoon (In the morning it was also open but the idea of tasting good whiskey morning brought together few amateurs…).
After a quiet morning on board, without swell or wind, it is under a big blue sky that we leave the shore for the famous visit to the Bruidladdich distillery. We went to reception, which also served as a point of sale, and learned that the guided tour only took place in the morning at 10:30 a.m. Our interlocutor suggested that we come back the next day, except that the next day, we planned to leave towards the north coast of Islay… Obviously very disappointed, she sympathized with us when she learned that we came here by sailboat, this large sailboat all alone in this immense loch, and offers to show us around the distillery straight away, asking his colleague to keep the on-board mascot, the Spinning Top, at the counter for the duration of this visit.
She tells us that this distillery was founded in 1881 and that many of the equipment used to make their whiskeys are still used today. She describes the different stages of manufacturing and the machines used, the origin of the malt (and the partnerships with local producers), makes us feel the evolution of fermentation in several barrels of tens of thousands of liters each… The process is complex and the passion for his profession truly immerses us in a new universe. The large distillation room is almost like a museum, with objects worthy of a dive into the world of Jules Verne. We are completely amazed by the contrast between the mechanical and artisanal processes that we see and the volumes produced: more than 3 million liters of whiskey per year! (and 1 million liters of “Botanist” Gin all going into “Ugly Betty”). And only two people handle all of this at their fingertips to give each whiskey its identity (more or less peated), maintain tradition and boldly create, as their Octomore illustrates, the most peated whiskey in the world (and Lauriane’s favorite!).
At the end of this visit, we find La Toupie at the counter accompanied by its new admirers, and begin the tasting stage. The choice is made to taste what stands out the most from the ordinary: the four Octomore (14.1, 14.2, 14.3 and 14.4). Ultimately, all very different, everyone will find the one they like, sometimes vanilla, sometimes reminiscent of leather and the smell of smoke.
After a final walk towards the bottom of the loch, we return on board, prepare dinner and the next day’s navigation.
The following night was a little rough with a small swell arriving from the south, before the wind from the same direction expected at midday. We take a weather update and prepare to weigh anchor. The forecast is good, south to southeast wind 4 to 6 and slightly rough to rough seas in our area (MALIN). We leave at the end of the morning to take advantage of the favorable tidal conditions to pass the An Coire islet with the Orsay island in the background overlooked by the Rhinns of Islay lighthouse and the villages of Port Wemyss and Portnahaven. We are moving at 5 knots, with staysail and mizzen. We bypass the current and eddy zone to avoid staying too long in cross seas. It’s raining and the wind is picking up little by little, giving us this “good” visibility at times…
After passing the point we gybe to go up the west of the island, in more comfortable conditions and a sky which clears at times, allowing us, among other things, to observe the white sand beach of Machir bay.
At the end of the afternoon we pass between Colonsay in the north and Ardnave Point, Nave Island and the Balach Rocks in the south, under mizzen, staysail and yankee, in calm seas and at 7 knots with 20 knots of wind: what a joy! The cliffs of northern Islay are covered and uncovered, revealing rainbows and then, gradually, the Rubha a’Mhail lighthouse. The latter marks the northern entrance to the Sound of Islay, separating this island from its even wilder neighbor: Jura.
We keep heading east, and, approaching the entrance channel, furl and lower the sails to reach a little corner of paradise whose approach proves demanding, with several alignments (rocks painted white ) to be respected in order to make a (narrow) passage between the numerous reefs.
It is in an environment illustrating the notion of wildness and immensity that we drop anchor, protected from the bad weather expected the next day, and which gives us the opportunity to leave navigation aside to go hiking, visit two bocies (refuges) and carry out the first inaugural flight of the association’s drone, the result of which is:
The rest this weekend with the program of the ascent of Jura, the crossing of Corryvreckan and the return, twenty years later, of Damien to Loch Melfort!
After letting a serious gust of wind pass, we are heading towards Scotland. The forecast is good: NE wind 3 to 5, occasionally 6, with fine to slightly rough seas and good visibility despite rare rain.
We leave Belfast Bay, leaving the town of White Head and its lighthouse, the Black Head, on our port side.
We hoist the mainsail while reefing as a precaution, hoist the mizzen high and unfurl the yankee and staysail. The cliffs overlooked by green pastures, as well as the numerous anchorages in small bays marked on the map, pass by and invite us to return for more time to Northern Ireland. The next time !
Around 4 p.m., 20-22 knots hit us head on, which was not expected. We reduce, mainsail 2 reefs, mizzen 1 reef, staysail 2/3 and a little piece of yankee to continue, upwind, to pass Rathlin Island and the Altacarry Head lighthouse, with lots of current and “eddies ” (swirls).
A bit stubborn we insist in the direction of Loch Indaal, taking a series of tacks to reach the west. Then the flashes of the lighthouse left in our wake appear, reminding us that night will soon arrive. Reluctant to drop anchor at night, and tired of persisting at 3 knots with the current becoming really contrary this time, we resigned ourselves to heading north, towards Kilnaughton Bay. The Scottish courtesy flag is now raised for several months!
We drop anchor in Scotland, in Islay, near the Flying Dutchman, an old 28m sailboat and the next day the discovery of the surrounding landscape is magical: white sand beach, hills with ocher and gray hues,… and the smoke of the Port Ellen Malthouse on our starboard side. All this just for us, Milagro being all alone in this large bay. Port Ellen is the name of the village but also that of an old distillery which closed several decades ago and which is now dedicated to preparing malt for the surrounding distilleries (there are nine on Islay). The few bottles of Port Ellen whiskey that have been preserved now sell for sometimes astronomical prices.
We took advantage of this stopover to hike several times in the surrounding area, of which here are some images:
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And also, to visit the surroundings of Laophraig under a sky as beautiful as it is threatening which made us choose the Port Ellen pub facing the beach, rather than continuing towards Lagavullin Bay and Ardberg Bay:
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Two days later we weigh anchor, determined to reach Loch Indaal, near Bruidladdich. The forecast promises us a certain slowness under sail (2 to 4 Beaufort) and we therefore make part of the journey under motor, leaving on our starboard side the cliffs of the Oa peninsula and the 20m high monument named Mull of Oa, dedicated to the memory of American shipwrecked in 1918, during the First World War.
At the end of the afternoon we arrive at our destination and leave Milagro alone in this immense bay, north of Port Charlotte, between Bruidladdich and Bowmore, names which immediately appeal to lovers of peated Scottish whisky!
After a brief stopover in Dún Laoghaire, the official stamp on the passport of the animal Toupie (which gives him the right to travel to the United Kingdom) and the passage of a gale, Milagro and his crew set off again. towards the north, in scattered areas. rain and wind W to SW 4 to 6 Beaufort. Under 2-reef mainsail, 1-reef mizzen and Yankee, Milagro sails at 6.5 knots, leaving the Baily lighthouse in her wake.
In the evening the wind drops seriously and the choice is made to enter Carlington Bay (Carlington Lough, on the border between Ireland and the United Kingdom), to drop anchor in front of the village of Greencastle. The entrance is narrow via the north channel and the markings are not always lit after dark. After a night slalom between the mooring buoys (thanks to the flashlight!), we drop anchor a short distance from a pontoon used by fishermen and maritime pilots dedicated to going up the river to the ports of Warrenpoint and Newry.
The next morning we discovered the ruins of the castle which overlook the village. We learned a few hours later, during the visit, that it was built in the 13th century and that it was the scene of numerous clashes. Around us are green hills and meadows, and a blue sky which contrasts with the weather information from France received from our loved ones: in Nantes, it’s raining!
After britton pancakes and chocolate-banana cake, we set off again to anchor in front of the small port of Kilkeel. No wind and no swell, enough to make us forget that we are sleeping in a boat! The next morning, same thing: calm. We will have the nice surprise, a few days later, to discover that while we were sorting out a small detail on the Mainsail, Stuart Pirie took a beautiful image of Milagro and completed his profile on Marine Traffic!
We choose to move forward despite the absence of wind, the objective being to be in Bangor that same evening. So we go back to the engine near the coast to enjoy the landscape and Damien then devotes himself to replace two reefing lines which crossed each other in the boom. Among the things seen that day, the St John’s Point lighthouse, the entrance to Donnaghadee harbor with its church and colorful houses, large gray dolphins escorting us into Donnaghadee Sound, under a sunset, into Belfast Lough.
After sunset and a brief stop at the diesel pontoon, we moor in the Bangor marina. The next day a strong gale is forecast, we will stay sheltered!
A deep-sea expedition off the Chilean coasts has recently brought exceptional discoveries that shake what we already know about marine biodiversity. Scientist of the Schmidt Ocean Institute (SOI) have charted vast areas of the ocean and documented more than a hundred new species along with the discovery of four hitherto unknown submarine mountains. These results open up new horizons regarding sea life and stress how important it is to protect these invaluable ecosystems.
52 thousand square kilometers were explored
Revolutionary discoveries off the Chilean coasts have been permitted thanks to an exploration mission carried out by the Schmidt Ocean Institute. Between the 8th and the 11th of February, scientists operated the research ship called Falkor in order to chart nearly 52,800 square kilometers of the ocean, with a focus on Nazca and Salas y Gómez submarine ridges together with Juan Fernández and Nazca-Desventuradas marine parks.
A treasure of marine biodiversity
Ultimately, four submarine mountains were discovered thanks to the expedition. The most impressive, named Solito, is 3,530 meters high. Besides, more than a hundred unknown marine species have been identified, among them oblong sea urchins, complex sponges, spiral-shaped corals, and even a bugeyed lobster. Thereafter, the biologists will analyze some samples of these in order to confirm that they were not identified yet as previously known species. These discoveries represent a significant step forward in the understanding of marine depths. “We always expect to find new species in these untraveled remote areas. Yet the amount we discovered is stunning, especially regarding some groups including sponges.” director of the research group Javier Sellanes reported.
Preserving marine ecosystems matters
Submarine mountains play a key role in oceanic ecosystems as hot spots of biodiversity. Having discovered new submarine mounts off Chile highlights the importance of these invaluable marine habitat. As it turns out, these ecosystems are vulnerable to human activities such as trawling and deep-sea mining. The collected data gives a valuable insight into the marine biodiversity and sheds light on the preservation strategies.
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