Early in the morning, we raise anchor at the still and at a few cable lengths from Castle Moy on Loch Buie (Isle of Mull). In this loch facing south-west, last night was moderately pleasant, due to a small swell from the south that came before the wind forecast in the same direction, forcing the Milagro to keep an annoying stand through this swell (and cradle us of course, but we would have gladly done without it!).
By accumulating starting the engine, lifting the anchor, cleaning the pile of gravel and sludge that stained the chain and anchor, and hoisting sails to be able to navigate only through them, we have set a new record of a minimum use of the engine: 20 minutes! We are able to leave the loch thanks to the mizzen mast and the yankee, at close, at 5.5 knots: what’s the use of pushing it?
The forecast is good (South 3 to 5 going to 2 to 4 for a few hours, before going to 3 to 5 and move to North-West 4 to 6 south of the Isle of Mull. We make the most of the ebbing tide to keep at good distance from the southern coast, despite a closed haul. This part of the island situated between Loch Scridain (North) and the end of Firth of Lorn (South) form a peninsula called Ross of Mull. The further West we navigate, the more complex the bottoms get, with many reefs to go through to reach our goal: Iona.
The basalt cliffs (palisades again!) are, at times, shaped into caves and arches sculpted by erosion and are interspersed by gorgeous turquoise waterfalls and creeks. Disregarding the water temperature (14 degrees), this colour could entice us to go swimming! We are stunned by the beauty of the landscape and change course to come closer, close-hauled to Malcom’s Point waterfall, before going back to our southern course.
Gradually, we come across more demanding passages, of which the Torran Rocks mapped by Bogha nan Ramfhear cardinal and the entry towards the south of the Sound of Iona. Once again, we experience many moments of solitude (and laughter obviously) which intersperse with the times when we name the rocks, bays, reefs, islands and capes! Our encounters with locals who didn’t speak Gaelic reassured us when we talked about it with them: they were only just about able to mumble a few words! If you want to get an idea of the moment, just look at the map of that area!
We enter the channel separating Ross of Mull from Iona by sail (close-hauled, 5.5 knots). Being the only sailing ship in this channel at the end of the afternoon, we decide not to set course north by means of the engine.
We prefer to take our time to study the map thoroughly and look for any visual signs onshore to successfully cross the channel by exclusively relying on the alignments (cathedral, Bull Hole…) and the sounder indicators, rather than following what’s on the screens. We prepare several recordings by means of the compass and jibing manoeuvres in relatively narrow passages to go round sounders of a sand and rock band between 10cms and 1m60, then sail starboard off Eilean nam Ban Island and its amazing colours. We arrive in a new area and reach anchorage of Port na Fraing and its white sand beach, just for ourselves and on 7m bottom! (those of Martyrs’ Bay or Bull Hole are more crowdy). The forecast 4 to 6 Beaufort arrive at the end of the day, yet we are safe in the channel, under Iona’s wind.
After a restful night, we leave on the boat towards Martyr’s Bay’s ferry dock to visit this sacred place of the Scottish history of which Vicky Gunn has told us about: she is medieval history research we had met in Loch Melfort.
Iona is a small island facing the Atlantic Ocean and has only one land at the surface towards the West at this latitude, given the dangerous surroundings of Skerryvore (next comes Canada). It’s surrounded with reefs of which the black rocks are set in contrast with the white sand beaches. Bestowed with a small village offering all the essential services (including a primary school) and several craftworkers (potters, wood sculptors, jewellery designers, basket makers, weavers…), Iona is considered one of the main spiritual places of Scotland. Many come in pilgrimage and/or to find peace during spiritual retreats.
Why is this small island so important, then? This is what we’ll share with you further in details thanks to the information given by Vicky during our visit, and through the reading and research that followed.
The first conclusion we can make is that the cultural and historical importance of Iona is totally out of proportion, given its size. It has been inhabited at least since the Bronze Age as can be seen with Blàr Buidhe site; but it is only from the 6th century that the importance of Iona was documented. Several toponyms are associated with the island, including “Ì”, “Ì Challuim Chille” (Iona of St Columba to avoid any confusions), “Eilean Idhe” (The isle of Iona) and “Ì nam ban bòidheach” (Iona of the beautiful woman in gaelic), and its inhabitants are called the Idheach.
563 saw the arrival of twelves disciples sailing on Columbia from the north of Ireland. They founded the second Christianisation mission of Scotland, one century and a half after the former one led by Ninian of the Isle of Whithorn in 397, and of which the precepts would have been conveyed all the way to the Shetland islands. It was a strategic move to establish a church and a monastery on Iona, since that island was situated on a waterway allowing passage from Inverness to Ireland but also the whole Celtic world. Like Holy Island and Portmahomack, Iona quickly became a source of dissemination of the Celtic version of the Christian religion and of new ideas and creations (including illumination/calligraphy, music, painting and art crafts). Choosing this place to do it was very efficient because it was situated on a main cultural and commercial axis at the time. The small community that had settled there also developed a subsistence economy with an important farming activity (cereal cultures and breeding), fishing and building. They were not completely self-reliant, since they used to import wine, pigments and oils from the south of France for liturgic purposes!
For 34 years, Columba developed close ties with royalty, converting, for example, King Bruce and the Picts to Christianism, following a spiritual battle he won against the referent of their kingdom. Columba also facilitated, until his death in 597, the establishment of an independent realm in west Scotland: Argyll. Most of this information reached us thanks to Adomnàn, a diplomat who succeeded to and was St Columba’s biographer, by leading the mission for 25 years, in the 7th century. He wrote several major works to understand that period, including “The life of Saint Columba” (“Vita Sancti Columbae”, circa 690) and “The Law of the innocents” (“Lex Innocentium” dated 697).
In the 8th and 9th centuries, the Vikings attacked Iona on several occasions, attracted by the treasures of the monastery. 825 saw one of the worst Viking raids: Father Blathmac and the monks with him were tortured for the purpose of getting them to reveal the place where the relics of St Columba were hidden, a poem mentioning they would lay inside a chest covered with gold and silver. When nothing was confessed, they were slaughtered in a bay later called Martyrs’ Bay. The fear of those raids and their repetitive nature was such that it had led to an exodus of many clergymen who made sure to take the rarest relics with them (including St Columba’s bones) and another treasure: the Book of Kells (created in Iona 200 years after St Columba’s death, this book is considered one of the most remarkable religious works of the time and can now be seen at Trinity College in Dublin). Despite these relentless attacks, the monastery remained active, and the frequency of the raids only decreased in the 10th century when the Vikings settled in the Hebrides converted to Christianism and adopted St Columba as their saint patron. Several engraved tomb stones preserved in the museum show the Viking influence with inscriptions in rune.
In the 11th century, Iona and most of the western Scottish isles were under the power of the king of Norway. The distance made it quite complicated to rule the region, the king entrusted a Norwegian-Gaelic warrior with the task: Somerled. He became the first Lord of the Isles, controlling a region spreading from Kintyre to the Inner Hebrides. His descendants were the MacDougalls of Lorn, MacDonalds of Islay and MacRuairis of Garmoran, several of them having played a major role in the 14th political manoeuvres and independence wars.
During our excursion onshore and on our way to the abbey, we walked across the ruins of a convent and followed the Road of the Dead (“Sràid nam marbh”), a road paved with pink granite and connecting the Martyr Bay with St Columba’s tombstone situated at the centre of the benedictine abbey built in the 15th century. This route was the very same one followed by pilgrims and during the processions dedicated to the graves of important actors of the Gaelic world in the cemetery of Reilig Odhrain surrounding St Oran chapel which was built in the 12th century (the oldest intact structure of the island). It is said that, in this cemetery, would lay 48 Scottish Kings (among whom Macbeth / Mac Bethad), members of the clan of MacDonald Lord of the Isles, some of whom with Norse ascendents (MacKinnons, MacLeans and MacLeods) and, in a small chapel so simple it is baffling, the bodies of the most important lord and war chiefs of the western Scottish islands. Many old, sculpted tombstones are still in this cemetery, while others have been moved to the museum of the abbey cloister to ensure their preservation. It is said that the first crosses on the tombstones, considered rather conventional nowadays, would have appeared in Iona approximately in 600, as shown with the oldest crosses ornate with sophisticated symbols and bearing various designs as shown by the various examples seen in the museum next to the abbey.
Afterwards, we leave this cemetery and walk to the rocky headland called Torr an aba, facing the abbey and where Columba used to work. This site offers an outstanding view on the Sound of Iona, the far end of Ross of Mull and the small chapel containing St Columba’s tomb and situated just behind the replica of an impressive granite, sculpted cross dedicated to St Jean (the original one is in the museum). This abbey was built in the 13th century after the arrival of benedictine monks and Augustinian sisters invited over by Ranald, the Lord of the Islands and descendant of Somerled, with the purpose of revitalising religious life on the island, while being offered more subsequent means of subsistence. Several armed attacks sabotaged this new monastery, as several Irish religious chiefs would not accept to lose their ties and influence on Iona. Following the Treaty of Perth (1266) between Norway and Scotland, Iona went back to the kingdom of Scotland, and progressively became an important pilgrimage place until the Reformation of 1560 which saw the end of the monasteries in Scotland.
Several restoration attempts were then carried out without any success, and progressively transformed the buildings into ruins by the end of the 19th century, as shown by several photos taken before some important work. The 8th Duke of Argyll, owner of the island, commissioned an architect to consolidate the ruins, then sold the abbey, the cemetery and the convent to Iona Cathedral Trust in 1899. Several renovation works were launched, and 6 years later, a first service was able to be performed in the partially renovated church. As the decades went by, dedication focused on restoring the monastery and the whole west part of the cloister, at the instigation of Iona Community, a Christian community that works towards peace and social justice and whose members are disseminated around the world. In 2000 Iona Cathedral Trust ended up selling the abbey, the cemetery, Saint Ronan’s church and the convent to Scotland’s historical monuments. Today the cathedral is still in good shape and well-kept by means of the revenues generated from the visits and donations.
Anyway, as you may have gathered, Iona is the place to be when you go to the Hebrides. It is to Scotland what St Jacques de Compostelle is to France and Spain, and if you really want to do the pilgrimage, we would recommend you do it sailing rather than walking. Even if you are not passionate about history, the sheer beauty of the monument and its surroundings is outstanding: they create a parenthesis where you are transported at different times and allow you to look at those islands with a different eye. Iona really does create room for the imaginary, eventually echoing everything we also look for in the navigation and the lengthy disconnection from the uproar it procures, being in harmony with, yet depending on the elements. This feeling can also be found in the words of the composer Felix Mendelssohn in 1829 featured on one of the exit walls of the cloister: “When in some future time I shall sit in a madly crowded assembly with music and dancing round me, and the wish arises to retire into the loneliest loneliness, I shall think of Iona.”
Time flew and we didn’t notice, and we came back to the Milagro only late afternoon and quickly nibbled on something before raising anchor, to make the most of the good conditions to reach Staffa, then Ulva before nightfall.
A small bonus: the sunset lights on the reefs and ocean spray southwards of Iona a couple of weeks later, departing the Treshnish islands.
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